Photos by Gregory Koch, Stadium Journey Stadium Info FANFARE Score: 2.57 Villanova Ballpark at Plymouth Walton Road Plymouth Meeting, PA 19462 Villanova Wildcats website Villanova Ballpark at Plymouth website Year Opened: 2003 Capacity: 750 Nova Nation Baseball in Plymouth Meeting Villanova Ballpark at Plymouth is the home of the Villanova University Wildcats baseball team. For years, the Wildcats played on-campus, but this ballpark opened about ten minutes off-campus in 2003 in a park run by Plymouth Township. The Wildcats baseball team dates back to 1866, although they have made the Division I Tournament only twice, most recently in 1991. Food & Beverage 1 There is a small concession stand run out of a portable cart behind the press box, but options are quite limited. Candy and cookies are $4, chips, soda, and bottled water are all $3, and Powerade is by far the most expensive option at $8. Fans are also free to bring their own food and drink, and most choose to do that option, or simply eat before the game. There are also a couple of vending machines selling drinks down the right field line near a small pavilion and the port-a-potties. If the cart is not there for whatever reason, fans can use those. Atmosphere 2 Villanova Ballpark at Plymouth Meeting has a very basic layout. There are two small sets of bleachers, one down each line, as well as a grassy area down the first base line where fans will bring their own chairs or stand and watch the game from there. There is no seating behind home plate as that is where the press box is. One interesting quirk is that due to the topography of the area, the front row of the bleachers is about eight feet above the the fact that it is roughly level with the parking lot and entrance. This leads to some unique viewing angles, although you will still be close to the action regardless. A small scoreboard in the outfield shows the linescore and other basic information. The good news is the stadium is covered in Villanova banners and other signage for the Wildcats. Unlike many off-campus stadiums, this truly feels like the Wildcats' home. Other than the game, there is not a lot going on. There is music played during breaks in the action but that is about it. Neighborhood 4 The ballpark is located less than a mile from the Plymouth Meeting Mall, which has almost a million square feet of shopping, restaurants, and other places to hang out. Redstone American Grill and Miller's Ale House are two places worth checking out there, but there are many others as well. The Villanova campus is about a ten minute drive away, and downtown Philadelphia is about half an hour, but there are plenty of options here in Plymouth Meeting, and many hotels as well. Most of them are even within walking distance of the park. Fans 2 Villanova draws a couple hundred fans a game, which may not seem like much until you consider that the stadium only seats 750. The bleachers can get pretty full during weekend games, and the fans who show up are a mix of friends and family of the players and other Villanova fans from the surrounding area. If they are playing a Big East foe like Seton Hall or Georgetown which is pretty close by, expect to see a lot of visiting fans as well. Ultimately, this is your standard northeastern baseball crowd. Despite the stands being fairly full, the crowd is not that loud, which is disappointing but not too unexpected. Access 2 Villanova Ballpark at Plymouth Meeting is just off of I-278 via Exit 333. However, you may have to sit in mall traffic to get from the exit to the stadium, or going back out after the game. Make sure you turn in the right place, as there is no sign, and if you turn where there is a sign, you will be at the community center around the corner, not in the right place. There is a paved lot fans can park in, and if that fills up (and it will) fans can park in a grass overflow lot adjacent to it. There are no permanent restrooms at the ballpark, but there are a couple of port-a-potties down the right field line by the small pavilion and vending machines. Return on Investment 5 Admission to Villanova baseball games is free to sit up close to the action, parking is free, and concessions are affordable if limited other than the absurdly overpriced Powerade. This makes a trip to a Villanova baseball game a great value. Extras 2 Check out the numbers on the outfield fence honoring Villanova greats of years past. Although these are officially "retired jerseys" and the numbers are reissued, it is nice to see them honor history. There are free dog treats available in a bin behind the press box for fans who bring their furry friends to the game. Final Thoughts Villanova Ballpark at Plymouth Meeting is a basic college baseball stadium and is certainly nothing fancy. However, baseball fans in the Philadelphia area will find it an affordable and enjoyable way to take in some baseball on an afternoon in the spring.

Photos by Greg Johnston, Stadium Journey. Stadium Info FANFARE Score: 3.14 Halifax Forum 2901 Windsor St. Halifax, NS B3K 5E5 St. Mary’s hockey website Halifax Forum website Year Opened: 1927 Capacity: 4,610 Home of the Huskies in Halifax The Halifax Forum was built in 1927 to replace the Provincial Exhibition Building, which was destroyed by the disastrous Halifax explosion ten years earlier. The Forum was built for sport and community gatherings, and boasts as having the first artificial ice surface east of Montreal. In 1971, the Nova Scotia Voyageurs became the first professional hockey team in Halifax. Playing in the American Hockey League, the Forum was home ice for the Voyageurs for seven seasons before moving into the brand new Halifax Metro Centre (now Scotiabank Centre). Losing the Voyageurs as the main tenant devastated the Forum financially. In the 1980s, it seemed inevitable that the Forum’s days were numbered. Instead, the building was expanded to create more adaptable events, including an additional ice hockey rink, meeting rooms, a multipurpose room, and a bingo hall. The arena’s fate was once again in question in 2014. A proposal to tear down the Forum and construct a modern four-pad hockey rink, was shot down by city councilors. Instead, a new proposal is in the works which includes renovating the historic building and surrounding lands, building an additional rink and other mixed use opportunities. Today, two university teams, the Saint Mary’s Huskies and Dalhousie Tigers, are the major tenants. Saint Mary’s University (SMU) has a history of success with their men’s hockey program. The Huskies reached the Canadian Interuniversity Sport (CIS) University Cup Finals four straight seasons in the early 1970s, losing each one to the University of Toronto Varsity Blues. A return to the finals alluded SMU until 2010, when they beat Alberta Golden Bears in overtime for their first championship. The Huskies fell short of their second championship in 2013, losing in CIS University Cup finals to the University of New Brunswick. Food & Beverage 2 The “Canteen,” located at the southwest corner of the building, is the only concession stand in the arena serving food and sodas. The Forum menu includes basic items such as pizza, nachos, popcorn, fries, and hot dogs all for a reasonable $3.00 to $3.75. Chips and candy bars are your remaining food options; these can be purchased at the Canteen or the multiple vending machines throughout the concourse for the same price. Pepsi products are offered in bottle only. For an alcoholic drink, make your way to the “Lounge” located near the nosebleed seats on the south end of the rink. The only beer pouring out of the tap is Coors Light for a surprisingly low price (at least in Canada) of $5.50. Both stands only take cash, however an ATM is located near the main entrance. Atmosphere 2 When you think of “old-time hockey,” you think of the hardnosed action on the ice, the helmetless players and goalies, and the intimate stadiums they played in. The Halifax Forum will remind you of those classic rinks of yesteryear that are nearly extinct. Think of the original six NHL franchises and the arenas they played in back in mid 1900s. Boston Garden, Chicago Stadium, Detroit Olympia, and the original Madison Square Garden in New York were all demolished. The Montreal Forum and Maple Leaf Gardens in Toronto were adaptively reused as public spaces. The renovations inside Maple Leaf Gardens included the Mattamy Athletic Centre on an upper story from the old floor. Thus hockey is still played there, but the original ice surface is now the frozen food section of a grocery store. Outside of the additional facilities around the building, the Halifax Forum has seen only minor renovations since the original construction was completed. The exterior brick facade and main entry signage is the same as it looks in old black and white photos. The building aligns with Windsor Street near Almon Street. The decorative masonry with glass block elements is clearly distinguishable from the street. As your ticket is torn, the rink catches your eye through a large portal, creating an anticipation of the event. The concourse in front of the main entry is narrow and crowded, made more so by the fund raisers who set up tables in that area. Like many old arenas, portals into seating areas are full of small ramps and the occasional odd placement for steps. The home and away benches are across the rink from each other, with both penalty boxes next to the home bench, providing some home ice advantage. The press box is an obvious addition to the building; it is odd, and out of place as it almost hangs over the rink. The four-sided scoreboard hanging from centre ice is a classic with its individually lit light bulbs like you see in old sports movies. Be sure to watch the action on the ice, no video board is available for replays. Listen closely to the public address announcer to know who scored the last goal; the acoustics in the arena is poor and difficult to make out what is said. The seating is set up in a horseshoe style. There are two rows of rink-side seats, in front of fifteen rows of seats having access from stairs. In most places, unpadded metal seats have replaced the old bench style seating in the stands. However, the seats are not very wide, and leave little space for leg room. The old steel supporting columns are close to the ice and may obstruct your view, but it’s also part of the facility’s charm. The only unobstructed view is behind the net, this appears to be where most patrons prefer to sit. Though the Forum’s website claims to be wheelchair accessible, the arena has not updated its seating plan for the handicapped. At the reviewed event, a wheelchair bound patron watched the action from an aisle leading to a portal. Avoid the upper rows of seats at centre ice; the hanging press box eliminates your view of any scoreboard in the building. If the weather outside is cold, prepare for it to be shivering inside as well, as the heating system only reaches a few rows in the middle of the seating sections. Most patrons leave their coats on the entire contest. Neighborhood 3 The Halifax Forum is located on the north end of the Halifax peninsula. In 1917, this area was devastated by the Halifax explosion, killing 2,000 people and wounding thousands more.The Maritime Museum of the Atlantic is a great place to learn more about this tragic event that remains etched in Haligonians hearts today. The Forum acts as a transition from a low density residential area to the east, and a post office distribution centre and commercial areas to the west. A choice of restaurants is hard to find in the immediate area. However Brooklyn’s Warehouse is across the street with a great Rueben sandwich. For lunch, try The Coastal or Tarek’s Cafe, both located along Robie Street close to Almon. For great pizza try Mother’s Pizza, just a few blocks further north. If you have time to explore, walk over to the Hydrostone Market. Local stores and coffee shops highlight a famous olde English style neighbourhood. Fans 3 In general, student attendance seems to suffer whenever home games are located off campus. Such could be the case with SMU where the arena is roughly 4 km away from the university. A vast majority of the fans are not students, but rather alumni and families. Crowds are quiet and respectful, enjoying the action on the ice. On the concourse at the start and end of each period, the Huskies players cross paths with fans to get to the dressing room. This is an excellent opportunity for kids to fist bump the players they admire, wishing them good luck. Attendance at the Forum will likely be far under capacity, and that’s not a bad thing. With small seats and rows, a sold out event at the Forum would be an uncomfortably tight squeeze with fellow fans. Tickets are general admission so you have the opportunity to find the best seat in the house. Access 4 Getting to the Halifax Forum is simple from car or public transit. Free parking is offered for 500 cars on site. On street parking is another free option available along side streets. Several Metro Transit routes drop you off close to the main entry for $2.50. The #18 bus route connects Saint Mary’s University and the Forum. The only entrance into the arena is clearly recognizable with the bright concourse lights shining through the multiple doorways and a shingled canopy above the entrance with the word “FORUM” in large block letters. Once doors open, access around the arena is straightforward. The concourse spans 180 degrees around one end of the rink. Finding your seat should not be difficult as plenty of colourful signs point you to the sections. A curtain separates public access, and the player locker rooms. Male and female restrooms are on both sides of the arena, with minimal lines at intermission. Each portal requires a maneuver around a structural column and down a ramp before entering the seating area, a unique feature that adds to the classic arena experience. Unfortunately, ushers are nowhere to be found if you do need help. A few security personnel are located by the emergency exits. Return on Investment 5 The experience at the Forum is well worth the price of admission. New arenas have moved toward comfort and luxury, but have lost the character and uniqueness that make each of the old venues great. This is a “bucket list” arena for those who find the allure of exploring old sporting arenas. Prices for individual game tickets are reasonable for CIS level of competition, and almost half the price of Halifax’s junior hockey team. Tickets are $10 for an adult, $8 for a senior or alumnus, $5 for young students and children, and SMU students get in free. The athletic department offers a season ticket package that includes every SMU athletic event for $200, and a “Huskies Fan 15 Pack” for any sporting event for $100. Extras 3 One point for the city of Halifax for keeping and using this classic old barn as it was originally intended all these years, and for years to come. One point for the displays throughout the concourse telling the history of the Halifax Forum by decade. The displays include both the good times, with famous performances and players, while also explaining the dark years and the threat of closure. One point for free parking on site. Final Thoughts The old arenas of the NHL’s original six may be history, but other traditional arenas still exist around the country. Halifax Forum is an arena that has survived hard times and threats of demolition. It has now found new life with the latest proposal, and a secure future. The Forum is not the perfect place to watch a game, but it has an aura about it that makes for a great hockey venue for spectators. Walking into the Forum visually takes you back in time, to an era of old-time hockey.

Photo courtesy of Wikipedia.org Stadium Info FANFARE Score: 2.71 Halifax Forum 2901 Windsor St Halifax, NS B3K 5E5 Canada Dalhousie Tigers website Halifax Forum website Year Opened: 1927 Capacity: 4,610 Old Time Venue in Halifax New ice rinks are all the rage these days. Arena designs have evolved over time with new technology and focus on the fans, players, and media experience. Attending a game at the Halifax Forum takes you back to a simpler time before colour television, padded seats, and cupholders. Following the catastrophic Halifax explosion in 1917, rebuilding efforts included the construction of the Forum for sporting and community events. The Forum opened its doors in 1927 and has since hosted numerous events including basketball games, boxing matches, and concerts. Hockey has always been the venue’s main attraction through the years, providing a home for the Nova Scotia Voyageurs of the American Hockey League starting in 1971. Voyageurs played seven seasons there until moving to the Halifax Metro Centre when it opened in 1979. The new arena meant the Forum faced an uncertain future. After years of debate, more community space was added, including another ice rink, bingo hall, and a multi-purpose room. Dalhousie Tigers have called the Forum home since 2012 after demolishing Memorial Arena located on Dalhousie’s campus. Dalhousie and Saint Mary’s University currently are the only tenants of the Forum. In 2014, a proposal to tear down the Forum for a four-pad ice arena was turned down by the city. Now a new proposal is in the works, including renovating the historic building and adding mixed use opportunities plus an additional rink within the surrounding lands. Meetings, craft shows, and a weekly farmers market help keep the historic venue active year round. Food & Beverage 2 The food and beverage selection at Halifax Forum is limited and full of greasy favourites. The only concession stand is located to your left as you enter the arena. Menu offerings include traditional stadium grub such as pizza slices, nachos, popcorn, fries, and hot dogs all for a reasonable $3 to $3.75. Smaller items such as chips and candy bars can be purchased at the concession stand or at vending machines located throughout the concourse for the same price. Pepsi products are offered in bottle only. For alcoholic beverages, make your way to the “Lounge” located at the top of the south end of the rink. Mixed drinks and Coors Light are the limited choices for $5.50. Both concession stands are cash only, an ATM’s is located near the main entrance. Atmosphere 2 The sense of arrival to the Forum has remained relatively unchanged in the arena’s 90-year history. The rough texture and arched patterns of the old red brick provides a reminder of the rich history the building signifies to the city of Halifax. The arena was built to last a century, though partly due to paranoia of another explosion. Plenty of free parking is available onsite with access off Almon Street, just steps from the front doors. The only entrance is clearly distinguishable with the large “FORUM” sign over a series of steel doors. The vestibule through the first set of doors is where you will find the box office. Prior to passing through the second set of doors you experience a taste of excitement for the game as you can see a glimpse of the ice rink. An usher waits to tear your ticket as you enter the concourse. Programs and thundersticks are free handouts for all fans. The program includes interesting facts about the university, a little hockey history at Dal, and both teams’ rosters. Take time to walk around the concourse prior to the game and learn more about the arena. Displays are set up are various locations telling a story of the Forum’s intriguing history. The seating bowl offers a few seating options. The cast iron rink-side seats are hardly used, but are a treat to see for any history buff. Seating is set up in a horseshoe shape with fifteen rows of out-of-date individual folding seats and benches. Rows are narrow and steep giving a sense of being on top of the action. Due to the structural technology of the time, the rink is lined with steel columns on both sides. These columns result in obstructed views for most seating areas. For this reason, many spectators prefer the end seats with a clear view of the game. The rink is traditionally cold; bring a sweater and sit near the middle rows where heaters hang down to provide warmth. A unique feature of the fan experience happens on the concourse. Here, fans and players cross paths due to the locker room location, providing an up close look at the teams. Be vigilant inside the seating bowl, a simple four-sided scoreboard hangs from centre ice without any video board to replay the big goal. During stops in play, in-game entertainment is limited to a variety of fun musical classics played on the loudspeaker. At intermission, a simple contest attempts to keep fans entertained. Neighbourhood 3 The Halifax Forum is located on the north end of the Halifax peninsula, close to where 2,000 perished in the Halifax Explosion. Visit Needham Park and the historic Hydrostone neighbourhood to learn more about the devastating event, and the rebuilding effort afterward. The forum is located at the edge of a vast commercial area and low-density residential neighbourhood. The only restaurant in the immediate area is Brooklyn’s Warehouse, a highly recommended eatery whose dinner menu changes daily. Other quality restaurants are located a short five minute drive away in the Hydrostone Market. Highly rated restaurants include Himachi House, Mother’s Pizza, and Salvatore’s Pizza. Fans 2 Prior to demolition, Memorial Arena provided an on-campus, appropriately sized venue easy for students and alumni to attend. Though only two kilometers from campus, the move to the Forum hurts student involvement and attendance at the games. A vast majority of the fans are alumni and families. Attendance figures are generally smaller compared to Saint Mary’s University, averaging around 300 a game. Low attendance results in a cavernous feel inside the arena with negligible energy from the fans. Crowds are quiet but attentive to the action on the ice. With the narrow rows and small seats, patrons create personal space by spreading out around the arena. This creates a great atmosphere for those who want to watch high-level hockey without distractions from fellow ticket holders. Access 4 Halifax Forum is easily accessible from car or public transit. 500 on-site parking spots are more than enough to fit everyone. Multiple Metro Transit routes stop close to the main entrance for $2.50. Students and faculty can hop on the #1 bus route to and from the Forum. Old, classic arenas have plenty of quirks to them unlike modern facilities. Access inside the arena is straightforward, however each portal requires a maneuver around a structural column and a declining ramp with low head height prior to entering the seating bowl. Colourful signs point you to the seating sections making finding your seat easy. Handicapped seating is non-existent. Patrons in wheelchairs watch the action just inside a portal next to the cast-iron seats. Two updated restrooms are on both sides of the arena, with no lines at intermission. Few staff are available for help. Most employees are either concession workers or security staff watching for propped emergency exit doors. Return on Investment 3 The historical atmosphere at the Forum, along with an entertaining brand of university hockey is well worth the price of admission. CIS hockey players are unlikely to have the talent for an NHL roster spot. What it lacks in star talent, it gains in passionate physical team play. The forum is a classic old venue providing an experience reminiscent of watching and imagining hockey players roam the ice in past decades. This is a must-see venue as more and more old barns face the wrecking ball. Prices for individual game tickets are competitive for CIS level of competition, and more affordable than witnessing a Halifax Mooseheads game. Tickets are $10 for an adult, $8 for faculty and alumnus, $5 for seniors and young students. Dalhousie students and children under six are admitted free. Dalhousie athletics provides free admission to youth teams with their “Name Your Game” program. Extras 3 One additional point for the continued use of the Halifax Forum for high-level ice hockey competition Another for a plethora of free on-site parking close to the main entrance. And thirdly, for multiple displays telling the story of Halifax Forum’s long history. Final Thought With today’s standards, Halifax Forum is by no means is a great place to watch a hockey game in today’s standards. It is uncomfortable, out-dated, and cold. But the character and awe of the rink’s history is evident when walking into the arena. The old exterior masonry and interior steel structure takes you back to the early days of hockey competition, before helmets and television broadcasts. When thinking about old-time venues, the original six NHL franchise arenas will always be first to come to mind. But all those classic buildings are gone, and the Halifax Forum is one of a few venues dating back to the 1920’s still in existence. With Dalhousie hockey program’s help, this arena will continue to create memories for decades to come. Dalhousie University has competed in men’s hockey since the early 1900’s. Back then, Dalhousie, St. Francis Xavier University, University of New Brunswick, and Mount Allison University competed for the Hewson Trophy. In modern times, Dalhousie plays in the Atlantic University Sport (AUS) conference of the Canadian Interuniversity Sport (CIS). The Tigers have only won the AUS once in 1979, but fell to the Alberta Golden Bears in the University Cup Final. The program may not have a strong tradition of winning, but the team remains competitive every season as it takes on traditional powerhouses.

Photos by Matt Colville, Stadium Journey Stadium Info FANFARE Score: 4.14 Mississippi Coliseum 1207 Mississippi St Jackson, MS 39202 Dixie Nationals Livestock Show and Rodeo website Mississippi Coliseum website Year Opened: 1962 Capacity: 6,500 Greatest Show on Dirt For 10 days every February some of the best cowboys in the world come to Jackson, Mississippi. The State Fairgrounds are transformed into the Rodeo Capital of the U.S., as the Dixie Nationals Livestock Show and Rodeo takes over the city. The idea for the Dixie Nationals began in the early 1960s when then Mississippi Agricultural Commissioner Si Corley and three Jackson businessmen took trips out west and saw the different livestock shows and rodeos that took place. By 1966 the first Dixie Nationals had begun, and by the third year the event turned a profit. Nicknamed the 'Greatest Show on Dirt' and the ‘Biggest Rodeo East of the Mississippi’, the Dixie Nationals, now entering its 57th year in 2023, is one of the premiere rodeos in the country and one of Mississippi's largest sporting events. The month-long livestock show and rodeo attracts more than 200,000 visitors to the State Fairgrounds, for an estimated economic impact of more than $20 million. Food & Beverage 4 Food is plentiful at the Dixie Nationals, so much so that you could fill yourself up before you even step foot inside Mississippi Coliseum. It is a carnival-like atmosphere on the grounds, with different food trucks and different food booths open during the event. The typical fair food is here along with seafood and gumbo. The Mississippi Cattleman's Association also has a giant barn set up called the Beef Barn – if it has meat in it you bet you can find it at the Beef Barn; they even have a "Hot Beef Sundae" which looks just like an ice cream sundae, but instead it's a cup of mashed potatoes and roast beef, topped with sour cream and cherry tomatoes. Another option is the Mississippi Trade Mart Building, a convention center-style building attached to the coliseum which has that building's regular concessions open inside, so you can find the usual fare there as well. For upscale food check out the Dixie National Steakhouse inside the Trade Mart Building; some of the best chefs in the Jackson area partnered together to create their own steakhouse. Inside you can get expensive sirloin, ribeye, and everything else before heading into the coliseum to watch some rodeo action. Once inside Mississippi Coliseum there are four concession stands, each with the regular ballpark fare. Chicken tenders, hot dogs, hamburgers, hot dogs, and nachos round out the menu with prices from $4 to $9. Several pop-up bars round out the concourse as well, serving a wide selection of alcoholic drinks. Atmosphere 5 The Dixie Nationals is more than just a rodeo – it is an event in itself. The Dixie Nationals unofficially begins the first week of January, with various judging competitions and showmanship awards for different animals. There are also livestock auctions taking place throughout the grounds almost every day in the weeks leading up to the official start of the rodeo. The main rodeo takes place for ten days in the middle of February inside the 6,500-seat Mississippi Coliseum on the grounds of the State Fairgrounds, but there is so much more to see and do here, with events going on at all times in the other buildings on the fairground's property. The rodeo starts on a Friday and ends the following Sunday, and they really go all out here bringing a taste of the wild west to Mississippi for those ten days. On the first Saturday morning of the Rodeo they do a giant parade through the streets of downtown, but instead of floats it is all covered wagons and horse-drawn carriages. Cowboys ride on their horses and parade from the fairgrounds to the State Capitol; it really is a sight to see. Once at the State Fairgrounds there are also various events taking place every day, for example the Mississippi Agricultural Commission Fan Expo goes on all day in the Trade Mart next to the coliseum – this expo has everything from mechanical bulls to petting zoos for the kids. You can even sit on Wilbur the Famous Rodeo Bull and get your picture taken. It is also a farmer's dream here at the expo, as you can find anything farm related here. They have interactive displays on the different soils and crops in Mississippi, and everything is interactive and touch-based to make it interesting, like the poultry exhibit where you can touch chicken eggs and watch them hatch. All the Mississippi-based industries had booths set up, as well as about 15-20 local colleges where they were trying to recruit prospective farming and agriculture majors. They even have about 100 different kinds of John Deere tractors on display, and you could climb into the tractors as well. The blacksmith booth set up was also a big hit, as I saw many people getting belts, boots and cowboy hats made. After spending hours at the fan expo you will spend even more time in the parking lot checking out the different barns and stables on the property – there are hundreds of stables and several livestock arenas with different livestock shows and auctions going on. All the farmers and ranchers have their prized livestock on display in the stables, and you can go right up and touch some of the bulls and cows that are being sold and competing at the rodeo. I talked to some farmers and ranchers who had come all the way from Canada, Wyoming, California, and Colorado with their horses and cattle. The Dixie Nationals consist of 10 rodeo shows that take place inside the coliseum over the course of the ten days, with two shows on Saturdays. Mississippi Agriculture Commissioner Andy Gibson makes an appearance before each show, giving a speech about the history of the Rodeo. Mississippi Coliseum is over 70 years old, but surprisingly is aging quite well for an old building. The whole building is glass covered from the outside, and the concourses are quite clean, having been renovated several years ago. Once in the seating bowl there is not a bad view from anywhere in the building, with the 6,500 seats close enough to the action so you can see everything, with a large temporary videoboard hanging in the center. The Dixie National Rodeo is part of the Southeastern circuit of the Professional Rodeo Circuit of America (PRCA), so you will see the top cowboys in the country compete. You will see seven rodeo events contested each day of the competition, namely bareback riding, steer wrestling, team roping, saddle bronc riding, tie down roping, barrel racing, and bull riding. A popular country music concert ends each night of the rodeo action, and after the final event of each show fans are invited to come down to the dirt, where they construct a stage for the concert. Neighborhood 4 The State Fairgrounds are located in the middle of downtown Jackson, the capital and largest city in Mississippi. In recent years Jackson has gained a reputation as a not-so-safe city, but as long as you are aware of your surroundings and don't venture too far away from downtown, especially after dark, you should be fine. Downtown is filled with historical sites and beautiful scenery, and within walking distance to the fairgrounds you can see all the tourist sites that make Jackson so special. If you are interested in the state's rich history, then visiting downtown Jackson is for you. Located two blocks from the fairgrounds is the state capitol, which was built in 1903 and is available for public tours. Pay attention to the beautiful stained-glass windows at the top of the capitol building; it is quite impressive with the intricate designs. Also across the street from the State Fairgrounds is the old capitol building, which served the state from 1839 until 1903 – the old capitol is available for tours as well, and is one of the few buildings in Jackson to survive the Civil War. Next to the old capitol is the Mississippi Civil Rights Museum, which just opened and is a popular spot for tourists. Other popular museums downtown include the Museum of Art, Children's Museum, and the Mississippi Sports Hall of Fame, a must visit for anyone who visits Jackson. For the night life scene of Jackson check out the Fondren District, about 4 miles north of the State Fairgrounds. You will find lawyers, politicians, doctors, and college students from one of Jackson's three universities mingling together in the bars and restaurants that line Old Canton Road into the district; near the fairgrounds there are also a few bars worth checking out as well. For the live music scene check out Hal & Mal's, or if you are into craft beers, try the hip Tavern on George Street. Fenian's Pub also remains a popular spot among locals for its dark and rustic setting. Fans 5 The Dixie Nationals is a huge event that attracts fans, cowboys, cowgirls, ranchers, and farmers from all over the country. For the 2023 edition fans will get even more events and live interactions with animals, as well as top-tier country music acts each night of the rodeo action. Mississippi native Randy Houser, former All-Pro bull rider turned country singer Chancey Williams, Mark Chestnutt, Diamond Rio, and Lainey Wilson are just some of the country acts that have performed for the Dixie Nationals. Lainey Wilson is the star of the popular show ‘Yellowstone’, so her show was a favorite among the fans, with that night's showing of the rodeo selling out as soon as tickets went on sale. Between the fan expo, vendor booths, exhibits, and livestock auction/displays, fans could spend hours walking around the grounds before even walking inside to watch the actual rodeo; I spent about 3-4 hours just walking the grounds, and I could have easily spent more time. Even if you have no knowledge of rodeo terms or rodeo culture, famed rodeo announcer Mike Mathis keeps fans informed of the action on the dirt, and Mississippi Agriculture Commissioner Andy Gibson makes an appearance before each rodeo giving a speech about the history of the event. A pretty cool 'Welcome to Mississippi' video also plays on the videoboard at the start, signifying that this is a statewide event. In addition, rodeo clowns entertain the fans during the competitions, with announcer Mike Mathis cracking jokes and playing games with the crowd and the clowns. The clowns definitely keep the crowd entertained through various prizes and bringing fans down to the dirt – the favorite among kids was when they threw the wheezers, a.k.a. boomerangs, into the crowd. Access 3 Mississippi Coliseum and the State Fairgrounds are conveniently located right off I-55, the main north and south corridor through downtown Jackson. Jackson is located at the halfway point between New Orleans and Memphis, about 3 hours from each. The best exit to take when getting off I-55 is Exit 96 at High Street, and the fairgrounds’ parking lot is located right there. Once on the grounds there is enough parking for over 20,000 cars, so even though the parking lot is full of vendors and livestock auctions going on, you shouldn't have any trouble finding a parking spot. The coliseum opens about an hour and a half before each show, and traffic through the concourse runs smoothly. Mississippi Coliseum doesn't look as old as it is, and the concourses are clean and wide enough for people to get to their seats easily. Return on Investment 4 As one of the biggest rodeos in the country, tickets are easy to come by and relatively cheap. The coliseum really has just one level of seating, with general admission at the top and in the end zones, costing between $25 and $30 depending on fees, while lower-level seats are $40 to $45 depending on fees. Parking is surprisingly free, which is always a plus. Factoring in the plethora of concessions and food options you get access too once on the grounds, I consider this a good return on investment – you are getting to see some of the best cowboys in the country and some pretty impressive livestock if you walk the grounds. The Dixie Nationals is a cool event that I recommend everyone check out, even if you have no interest in rodeos. Extras 4 Mississippi Coliseum is also Jackson's largest indoor sports and entertainment venue; the coliseum opened in 1962 and attracts a whole host of acts and sporting events to Jackson each year. Some of the top-named acts to perform at the facility over the years include Aerosmith, AC/DC, BB King, Bob Marley, Bob Dylan, Eddie Murphy, Elton John, Elvis Presley, Jimmy Buffett, Kiss, Guns N' Roses, Ozzy Osbourne, Prince, and many more. The coliseum was also home to the Jackson Bandits of the ECHL from 1999-2003, and hosts one Mississippi State and Ole Miss basketball game every year. Another random fact about the State Fairgrounds is that it sits 2,900 feet above an extinct volcano. Nicknamed the Jackson Volcano, it is one of four volcanoes located within city limits in the U.S. The volcano was discovered while drilling for oil in 1917, and is believed to been extinct for over 65 million years. Another extra for the concert that is held every night after the Rodeo – as soon as the final event of the night concludes (bull roping), fans are invited down to the dirt as a stage is built in about 20 minutes for a popular country music act. There is just something about being able to stand on the actual dirt just minutes after one of the largest rodeos in the country just finished, and factoring that in with the country music concert just sets the mood, and sends the crowd home happy from the rodeo. Popular trick roper and rodeo entertainer Rider Keizner and his wife Bethany Idles also make an appearance every year at the Dixie Nationals. Rider Keizner has been called a modern-day Will Rogers, and he delights the crowd with his different rope tricks and the gunslinging he does. His wife will come out on her famous white bronco and do handstands on the back of the horse, as the horse cuts in and out of different obstacles placed on the course.

Photos by Aaron S. Terry, Stadium Journey Stadium Info FANFARE Score: 4.00 Resch Center 820 Armed Forces Dr Green Bay, WI 54304 Green Bay Blizzard website Resch Center website Year Opened: 2002 Capacity: 9,877 In the Shadow of Lambeau The Green Bay Packers are the most well-known football team in Green Bay, Wisconsin, and perhaps the most well-known in the NFL as well. But you may not know about the other professional football team in Green Bay, which plays its home games right next door to Lambeau Field at Resch Center – the Green Bay Blizzard began playing indoor football in 2003 as members of Arena Football 2, and moved to the Indoor Football League (IFL) in 2010. The Blizzard have played at Resch Center for their entire existence. Food & Beverage 5 Resch Center has a ridiculous number of concessions options available from its main stands, including everything from hot dogs, brats, and burgers to chicken sandwiches and boneless wings, and sides ranging from popcorn and kettle corn to packaged candy, hot pretzels, and of course cheese curds. The most expensive food item rings in at only $6, and you can get $2 hot dogs at every game. Drink selections include soda, bottled water, Gatorade, Bubblr, draft beer, and Bud Light and vodka seltzers – non-alcoholic drinks range from $2 to $4.50, while the seltzers and beer run $8 to $10.50. Besides the main stands there is also a Mexican cantina offering mixed drinks and additional beer options, as well as nachos, walking tacos, and churros. There is also a smoothie stand, as well as a convenience store-type stand which offers a wider selection of canned beer, bottled water, and soda, plus Dippin’ Dots ice cream. Atmosphere 4 The Green Bay Blizzard offer a wonderful atmosphere for fans – besides the action of the field they have a great mascot (think the Abominable Snowman), fan contests during breaks in the action, such as fans having to catch footballs in shopping carts, local youth teams coming in to play rugby on the field during halftime, promotions where fans can win prizes by throwing footballs onto the middle of the field, TVs in the hallways so you don’t miss the action while at the concession stands, and best of all, special events like Micah Tyler in concert after the game during Faith & Fellowship Night – there was a stage set up behind one of the end zones. There are also premiere seating options like the Bud Light Cave, great music played throughout the game that fans can dance to, and a fabulous (and hilarious) PA announcer. Neighborhood 4 Being right next to Lambeau Field , it is not surprising there are plenty of restaurants and hotels within walking distance of Resch Center – popular spots include Stadium View Bar, Restaurant, & Banquet Hall (a Packers -themed sports bar); Badger State Brewing Company; and Anduzzi’s Sports Club on Holmgren Way. There is also a Buffalo Wild Wings nearby, and for hotels there is a Hilton Garden Inn right next to the arena. If you plan to be in town for the weekend, of course any true football fan should make a visit to the Green Bay Packers Hall of Fame (attached to Lambeau Field ), and you can also take the Oneida Walk of Legends, a 1-mile walking tour exploring 24 statues honoring the Packers . Fans 2 The fans at Blizzard games are passionate, they really seem to enjoy themselves and cheer at all the right times, but the facility is pretty empty. Even on a special events night with a free concert following the game, and all the fun activities the staff brings in to enhance the experience, there is just not much of a draw. This is a little disappointing for a team that has been in the area for almost 20 years. Access 3 Once you get inside Resch Center it is very easy to move around – the concessions lines are pretty short and there are plenty of bathrooms. The concourse is also absolutely massive so it is easy to move around, and there are stairs, escalators, and elevators all over the place tucked into various corners and hallways, so getting where you need to go is a breeze. The main drawback in regard to access is the parking – there is a lot right across the street from Resch Center ($10 per car), but this road backs up pretty badly; you could easily wait 15 minutes to half an hour just to get into the lot. Granted, once you get into the lot it is a super short walk to the venue, but you may be better off parking further away if you want to save some time and stress. Return on Investment 5 Attending a Green Bay Blizzard game is absolutely worth it – there is a trend nowadays with small venues across the country trying to avoid Ticketmaster and its fees (in order to reduce ticket prices and get more fans), and the Blizzard are all in on this. They instead use a site called Ticket Star, which charges much less in fees, or you can just buy at the door starting at $12 and avoid the fees altogether. $12 is a steal for this level of football – given all the great amenities, such as the free concert and getting to see kids play rugby during halftime, you really can’t beat this price point. Add in only $10 for parking, plus the ultra-cheap concessions, and you really are getting your money’s worth at Resch Center, even if you bring a large crowd. Extras 5 The Blizzard offer several great bonuses for fans who attend games at Resch Center – first off they have special promotions for most of their games, like Superheroes Night when kids are invited to dress up as their favorite superhero, or Faith & Fellowship Night when they have a free post-game concert by popular faith singer Micah Tyler. They also create special game balls, each with different graphics to match that day’s theme, for each of these games. They also throw out some really cool classic sound effects, for example when something good happens for the Blizzard they play the power up sound from Super Mario (the sound it makes when Mario grows bigger), and when something bad happens for the home team they play the sound of Pac-Man being eaten by the ghosts. They also have a team gear stand on the upper level if you want to grab your Blizzard swag, and the mascot is really top notch. Final Thoughts Indoor football is a lot of fun – with its shorter field and unique rules you are guaranteed to see a lot of scoring, and here at Resch Center you can get really close to the action, and even hear the smack of the pads coming together, or the sounds of the players trash-talking each other. The Blizzard take the sport to a whole new level with all the extras they throw in, so I definitely recommend seeing a game here – you won’t regret it.

Photos by Richard Smith, Stadium Journey Stadium Info FANFARE Score: 2.43 Brockell Field One Seahawk Drive North East, MD 21901 Cecil College Seahawks website Brockell Field website Year Opened: n/a Capacity: n/a Baseball Seahawks Cecil College is a community college in Cecil County located just outside of the town of North East, Maryland. It was founded in 1968 and was known as Cecil Community College until 2007. The athletics programs at the college are known as the Seahawks. Nine sports teams on campus compete in Division II of NJCAA. The baseball stadium is named after former long-time baseball coach and 2019 Cecil College Athletics Hall of Fame Inductee, Charlie "Dick" Brockell. Food & Beverage 1 There are limited food options available at Brockell Field. There is a shared concession stand with the softball field but we do not know when it is open. We will award a 1, assuming that it is open on busy weekend games. Atmosphere 2 There is not much else in terms of atmosphere as it is a JUCO-level baseball game. The team does have a PA announcer and plays walkup music for players. There is a large and weird variety of seating options around the field. There is a couple of small three-row bleachers, a couple of garden benches, regular park benches, park picnic tables, and a raised stone seating area. You can also sit on the grass to bring your chair. The baseball field is located right next to some nice woods, that offer a nice view past the fences. Neighborhood 3 North East is located between Philadelphia and Baltimore and is simply named from its direction on the Maryland map. Downtown North East offers many great shopping opportunities as well as wonderful food. Woody's Crabs and its sister restaurant across the street, Woody's Tacos are our choices for meals when in town. The college is located across I-95 from the town and there are some other food options as well. Fans 2 The attendees at most games are family members or other athletes. There may be a few residents who attend the games. The fans are knowledgeable and friendly to visitors. Access 3 The college is located almost directly off of I-95, one of the busiest and most well-known highways in the country so getting to campus will not be difficult. Follow signs to the back of the campus and you will find the athletic field. There will be plenty of parking. We are dropping our rating down a bit as current construction might make your way back to the baseball field a bit of an adventure. Return on Investment 5 The games are free to attend. That, along with the free parking, means that you can attend a good-level JUCO program at no cost. Extras 1 The unique variety of seating options is an extra on its own. Final Thoughts Brockell Field is a basic pleasant baseball field located in a nice park-like setting. Although nothing fancy, it is a nice little stop for a baseball fan traveling along the I-95 corridor.

Photos by Eric Moreno, Stadium Journey Stadium Info FANFARE Score: 3.43 TDECU Stadium 3875 Holman St Houston, TX 77004 Houston Roughnecks website TDECU Stadium website Year Opened: 2014 Capacity: 40,000 Houston Roughnecks – TDECU Stadium The XFL returned in full force in 2023 with a new spring season and new owners Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson and his business partner, Dany Garcia. After the unplanned hiatus caused by the pandemic, the returned league brought back with it one of its cornerstone franchises, the Houston Roughnecks. Playing at the home of the University of Houston Cougars, TDECU Stadium, the Roughnecks quickly became a fan favorite in Space City. TDECU Stadium was built on the former site of Robertson Stadium, which was the home of Cougars football since 1946. Robertson Stadium was razed in early 2013. TDECU Stadium opened in August 2014 at a cost of $128 million. In their first season, they drew respectable crowds and made the playoffs. TDECU Stadium proved to be the perfect venue for the fledgling league and team. It still retains that “new stadium” feel, and is just the right size for the XFL going forward. Food & Beverage 4 While all the food and drink options that are available for Cougars games aren’t open for the Roughnecks, what is there is still more than adequate. The variety offered is, quite frankly, pretty impressive. In addition to the kiosks that offer the standard fare of hot dogs, popcorn, candy, fountain sodas, and bottled drinks, there are plenty of other options to choose from. Additional offerings include a Chick-fil-A stand, selling their signature chicken sandwiches and lemonade, a Fuddruckers stand, selling burgers, and a Shipley’s Do-Nuts stand, with all manner of fried, sugary goodness. Perhaps the most unique stand is local fave Miss Patty’s, which sells cheesesteaks and fried catfish. There are also stands for gourmet popcorn, pizza, chicken fingers, and street tacos; truly anything a sports fan could want is on the metaphorical menu. There is also a tequila bar for those looking to do some serious imbibing during Roughnecks games. Atmosphere 3 I had the benefit of attending the Roughnecks playoff game, so I can’t 100% say that the atmosphere I got to experience was typical for a regular-season contest. With that being said, what I did experience on my visit was the best atmosphere I’ve seen to date for the XFL. There were a lot of fans in the parking lots and in the areas surrounding the stadium, which always helps the energy inside. The XFL also had plenty of signage throughout the stadium to add to the atmosphere. Also, sprinkled throughout the stadium, on the main concourse, are several team stores selling all manner of Roughnecks and XFL gear. Neighborhood 4 TDECU Stadium is located right in the middle of the University of Houston’s campus. It is within walking distance of both the Fertitta Center and Schroeder Park, home to the school’s basketball and baseball teams, respectively. If you time things out right, you can probably catch one or more of these other teams in action, as both are in season with the Roughnecks. Houston is the largest city in Texas and the fourth largest in the U.S. That said, there are a multitude of additional entertainment options to choose from, especially on the sports side. The reigning MLB World Series champion Houston Astros and two-time NBA champion Houston Rockets both call (naturally) Space City their home. Like their collegiate counterparts, both teams’ seasons overlap with the Roughnecks. Outside of sports, Houston has a lot to offer visitors. From culture and history to zoos, aquariums, and shopping, Houston has it all. No matter what your interests are, you’re sure to find something to do either before or after a Roughnecks game. In terms of dining and lodging, the options around UH’s campus aren’t going to be five-star or gourmet choices. However, Houston proper (especially downtown) has something for every taste and budget. In the immediate vicinity, for dining you can find a couple of fast-casual options – these include Eric’s Restaurant, which offers up sandwiches, wraps, salads, and fish options. Also close by is Frenchy’s Chicken, a darn good fried chicken spot. Fans 3 The crowd at TDECU Stadium was quite impressive during my visit. Lots of folks came out decked in Roughnecks gear – as well as Oilers and Astros gear. There was also a decent number of Arlington Renegades fans, which helped make the energy even more palpable. The Roughneck fans in attendance did a good job of making this feel like a big-time game. They were loud and engaged the whole game through. It was by far the best crowd experience I’ve seen to date among the XFL games I attended this season. Access 4 The University of Houston campus and TDECU Stadium are located in the middle of a triangle of highways and freeways, namely Interstates 45 and 610, and state highway 69. This makes it imminently reachable from anywhere in Space City. The campus is a three-and-a-half-hour drive from San Antonio, four hours from Austin, and just under four hours from the Dallas/Fort Worth metroplex. It is also just a 40-minute drive from George W. Bush Intercontinental Airport and about 20 minutes from William P. Hobby Airport. Both are massive and have flights in and out of H-Town to sites across the globe non-stop. Once you’re on campus, parking is plentiful in the many lots around the athletic complex, including a covered parking garage directly across from TDECU Stadium. The costs will run you $25 to $40, depending on how close you want to get to the stadium. The Houston METRORail also features a stop just outside TDECU Stadium, so if you choose not to drive, this is a great option. I say this with my usual caveat when it comes to Houston; if you’re going to drive to a Roughnecks game, build in time to accommodate for Houston traffic – you will be in it for some time, so plan accordingly. Return on Investment 3 Single-game tickets for the Houston Roughnecks start at $27 per person. This is a pretty good bargain for professional football. Parking is a little bit on the high side (costing as much as $40); however, there are cheaper options if you seek them out. Also on the plus side, the concession costs still retain their University of Houston price points; some options are higher end, but there are plenty of bargains to be had. Extras 3 One of the issues I’ve had with the XFL as a whole this season is their lack of pageantry. I think that football games are events and should be treated as such. I have reconciled the XFL’s lack of pomp and circumstance with the probable need to keep budgets under control. All that being said, the Roughnecks did a much better job compared to other XFL teams I have seen. For example, Houston has two pseudo-mascots dressed as roughnecks patrolling one of the end zones, interacting with the crowd, and waving a Houston Roughnecks flag in celebration of scores. There also seemed to be more XFL signage here, in addition to having a local high school marching band perform at halftime. The Roughnecks have a lot of room for growth and improvement, but this was a decent start. Final Thoughts All in all, I’m glad the XFL made its return, and I’m hopeful that some of the lessons learned from this season can be implemented for another year. Games at TDECU Stadium have always been enjoyable, and this was no exception. If you’re a football fan, the more of it you can consume – especially in person – the better. The Roughnecks put a pretty good product on the field, and TDECU Stadium is a great venue. If you’re in Space Town for the next XFL season, catch a game if you can. Follow Eric Moreno's Stadium Journey on Twitter at @EricMoreno6477.

Accessibility is something that many fans take for granted, but which is an important consideration for many fans. We are joined by Heather Schey from the Ocean State Center for Independent Living to discuss accessibility issues faced by sports fans with visual impairments. Audio versions of the Stadium Journey podcast can be found by searching HIAC Talk Radio wherever you look for your favorite podcasts. Video simulcasts of all the Stadium Journey podcasts can be found on Stadium Journey's YouTube page. Join us live as we record every other Tuesday night at 7PM eastern at danlaw.tv.

Photos by Stephan Hoogerwaard, Stadium Journey Stadium Info FANFARE Score: 4.00 Borussia Park Hennes-Weisweiler-Allee 1 Monchengladbach, North Rhine-Westphalia 41179 Germany Borussia Monchengladbach website Borussia Park website Year Opened: 2004 Capacity: 59,274 Bratwurst @ Borussia Park The Borussia Park stadium is the home of German Bundesliga football club Borussia Mönchengladbach. The stadium is the center of all the sports facilities located in the ‘Nordpark’ of the North Rhine-Westphalian city of Mönchengladbach. This area was used until 1996 as Ayrshire Barracks North by the British Rhine Army. It took just two years to build the Borussia Park. After the groundbreaking ceremony on March 15th, 2002, construction began on November 13th of that year. The total construction of the stadium cost 86.9 million euros, which is quite cheap for such a large size stadium. By the end of May 2004, Borussia Mönchengladbach left the outdated and much smaller Bökelbergstadion (capacity of 34.500 spectators). This stadium consisted of one double-tiered covered stand with only seats and three stands with all uncovered terraces. You can understand why it didn’t meet modern safety standards and international requirements anymore, so it was time to move. On July 30th, 2004, Borussia Park was ceremoniously opened with a small tournament, in which, apart from Borussia Mönchengladbach, FC Bayern München and AS Monaco participated. During Bundesliga matches the stadium has a total capacity of 54,014 spectators. There are 37,869 covered seats and 16,145 covered standing places. Most of the standing places are in the lower tier of the north stand (also known as ‘Nord Kurve’). The most fanatic supporters are housed there. In this standing area, there are convertible seats available, so it is easy to make an all-seater from this stadium during international matches. The capacity is then limited to 46,287 spectators. The maximum permitted building capacity is 60,250 spectators, which is reached when the lower tier of the south curve is converted into standing places. The stadium has 45 business units with 684 seats and 1,758 business seats. There are also 194 press-related places in the stands. Food & Beverage 4 On the concourse of the stadium, you'll find plenty of counters where you can buy food and drinks. There is not that much choice, but it is sufficient and the prices are average. There are various sodas to choose from and you can buy half a litre of beer. When you visit a German stadium you should try a Bratwurst, this typical German sausage comes with a small sandwich. You can add sauce yourself. They also sell Krakauers (3.10 euro), pizza slices, fries, pretzels, and other snacks. Luckily you still can pay with cash here, which is different at the Veltins Arena from FC Schalke’04 which lies 50 miles ahead where you can only pay by card (Knappen-Karte). Atmosphere 5 Walking towards the stadium you see from the outside that the stadium is rather small, but that is because a part of the lower tier lies underneath ground level. While inside you'll find a large stadium with mainly light and dark grey seats. The stadium is very compact which gives you a good view of the action on the pitch. Experiencing the atmosphere in German stadia is unique. Most of the German teams have large supporter groups. On this occasion, there were 4.500 fans from SV Werder Bremen traveling to Mönchengladbach. Neighbourhood 2 This stadium is built where the former Ayrshire Barracks from the British Rhine Army was located. It’s on the outskirts of the city of Mönchengladbach. The stadium itself lies in a quiet, remote area with only some office buildings and other sports facilities. There are no restaurants or bars in the near area of the ground. Fans 4 Borussia Mönchengladbach's most fanatic supporters are housed in the lower tier of the Nord Kurve (North Stand), where more than 16,000 fans are packed in this standing area of the ground. In Germany, you can find only one larger standing area and that is at the Signal Iduna Park from German giants Borussia Dortmund - there 25,000 fans are packed together each match. The Borussia fans support their team all 90 minutes. Most of the fans when attending a match are dressed in a white (with green and black accents) home shirt. During the match, the vocal support is very good from both sides. Supporter groups are fired up by a ‘capo’ with a megaphone. Access 4 The access to Borussia Park is good. The stadium lies next to the motorway A61 which runs along the west side of the city. Take exit Holt and turn right onto the Aachener Strasse, try to find a parking place there. From there it takes you about 20 minutes by foot to get to the ground. When you are not going by car but prefer to go by train, there is a direct shuttle bus in operation from both the Mönchengladbach and Rheydt train stations. The shuttle bus takes less than 15 minutes to the ground. Return on Investment 5 With average prices for food and drinks, a delicious Bratwurst and a couple of beers, a ticket for a Bundesliga match at the cost of 27.50 euros for a seat in the lower tier behind the goal, a great atmosphere, a very attractive match with high-quality soccer and five goals (4-1), I couldn’t wish for more. Extras 4 If you want you can book a stadium tour and experience the Borussia Park in a completely different way. You can take a look behind the scenes with a guided tour that lasts some 90 minutes. This tour costs 9.00 euros for adults and 4.00 euros for children under 15 years of age. At Borussia Park, there is also a very large club shop where you can purchase the widest range of accessories and merchandise. Final Thoughts When you are in Germany and you want to visit a Bundesliga match, there are several Bundesliga clubs in the Ruhr-area to choose from. If you pick Borussia Mönchengladbach, you have picked a good option. Tickets for most matches are available online. I’m sure you will have a great football experience. Just don’t forget to try the Bratwurst!

Photos by Chris Tuck, Stadium Journey Stadium Info FANFARE Score: 3.71 Stade Océane Boulevard de Leningrad 76600 Le Havre, France Le Havre AC website Stade Oceane website Year Opened: 2012 Capacity: 25,181 The Stadium by the Sea! Stade Océane is a modern multi-purpose arena on the outskirts of Le Harve. It has a capacity of just over 25,000 and is home to Ligue 2 side Le Havre AC. Opened in July 2012 it replaced the aging Stade Jules Deschaseaux’ which is still standing, just across the railway line from its shimmering replacement. By day, the new stadium resembles a petite Allianz Arena. At night, its deep ‘sea’ blue polymer and synthetic shell illuminate its exterior in stunning style…. It is a sight to behold for stadium lovers. Visiting for a 2019 FIFA Women’s World Cup match, Le Havre is alive, with locals keen to showcase their port city and futuristic stadium to waves of visiting fans. Stade Oceane is the largest stadium in the Normandy area. As the name indicates it sits close to the Seine River. Head southeast and you can sail to Paris or west to the entrance to the English Channel. Founded in 1517, Le Havre which translates as ‘the port’ or ‘the harbour’ has always been synonymous with the sea. Recent years have seen a renaissance of maritime activity with an enlarged port bringing renewed prosperity to the city. This is the second largest port in France. With a population of less than 200,000, the city however feels compact and accessible. After heavy bombing towards the end of WW2, the rebuilding was thoughtful and innovative, led by architect Auguste Perret. In 2005 the city centre area became a UNESCO World Heritage status. Football in Le Havre is dominated by Le Harve Athletic Club the oldest surviving football team in the whole of France. Their most famous recent player is Paul Pogba who played in the Le Harve youth system before moving across the channel to Manchester United. Food & Beverage 3 Within the footprint of the stadium, there are not too many food outlets to be seen. The immediate area also lacks options. Inside, the concourse kiosks provided the usual football fayre. Your best option is to get your sustenance back in the central area of the city. Numerous outlets can be found in the promenade area, the quartier St Francois, and in and around the iconic the Volcan cultural building. For a quick fix, there is a McDonalds back along the Boulevard de Leningrad by the Hotel Kyriad. Atmosphere 4 The stadium, designed by SCAU and KSS attempts to achieve an ‘English style’ football atmosphere with steep inclines and the fan's closeness to the pitch. This multi-purpose stadium has also hosted rugby matches and music concerts. Three stands have the same size and dimensions with an imposing main stand and curved roof which is the centre piece of this intimate feeling arena. Entrance gates are listed from A-G with away fans entering their section via Gate F. The legroom for all seats is good and as with most modern venues, there are no ‘bad’ seats in the whole place. Neighborhood 5 Within the immediate vicinity of the stadium, there isn’t a great deal to do or see. Lodged between a dual carriageway and train lines almost all visitors will base themselves in the centre of town. If you prefer to stay in the local neighbourhood you could book in at the (quite expensive) 1872 Stadium Hotel’ built into the west stand of the ground. You won’t get closer than that! Aside from watching a game, you could also visit the old Le Havre stadium ‘Stade Jules Deschaseaux’ just across the main road to hear the faint echoes of past glories in this now-decaying ground. The main road that links the centre of the city to the stadium is called the Quai Colbert which becomes the Boulevard de Leningrad. This main road also leads to the railway station, bus station, and ferry port. Once you find this road you have your bearings. Landmarks to see in the town centre itself include the amazing installation called Catane De Containers a colourful sculpture that can be seen from the ferry as you arrive. Le Volcan conceived by Oscar Niemeyer, is an eye-catching library and auditorium which must be seen. Other landmarks to see are the Saint-Joseph’s Church, the city hall, and the hanging gardens. For refreshments, the Au Bureau is a good place to start which can be found on Rue Bernardine de Saint Pierre. Food and a good choice of beers are available at a reasonable price. Outdoor seating is also available for those balmy early or late summer afternoons. A couple of doors up from the Bureau there’s an excellent chocolate shop called Chocolaterie Auzou des Halles, then on the corner of Rue Louise Brindeau finish with ice cream or waffle to die for. You could also visit the Docks shopping centre located just off the Quai Colbert in some refurbished old wharf buildings. As well as various outlet shops you can find food here to suit a variety of tastes. Fans 4 The club has friendly links with the Brits from across the channel owing to its early years. Le Havre AC has English founders who visited from Oxford and Cambridge Universities. The city is also twinned with Southampton. There are at least four separate fan groups who testify of their love and devotion to the club, Havrais Barbarians, HAC Supporters Federation, Kop Ciel et Marine, and Kop Oceane 1872. Fans are well organised and have good influence within the club nicknamed Les Ciel et Marine (sky and Navy) after the club's colours. The average home attendance in the 2018/19 season was 6,161. Previous seasons a 1000 or so more than that. ‘Forever the First’ is the club anthem which was launched at a derby match v local rivals Caen early in the life of the new stadium and is sung to the tune of the English national anthem. The fans have seen periodic success with Le Havre winning five Ligue 2 titles, the most recent in 2008. They also have one Coupe de France win back in 1959. Access 3 Le Havre is located in Normandy, a picturesque region on the northern coast of France, west of the Parc Naturel Regional des Boucles de la Seine Normande. This busy port city is easily accessible by rail, sea, and road. Paris is just over two hours away from the Intercites train service (from Paris Saint Lazare) to Le Havre railway station. The low-budget travelers’ friend ‘Flixbus’ offers a coach service from Paris taking a similar amount of time. From the UK, Brittany Ferries run a twice-daily service from Portsmouth. The crossing takes 5.5 hours and single passengers on foot can pay as little as £60 for a return ticket. Le Havre and nearby Caen both have local airports, but international travellers should head for Paris and continue from there. From the city centre it is a 5k walk to the stadium. Free shuttles are available by the Havreville – Le Harve Seine metrople. If you are arriving by car, the Stade Oceane sits adjacent to the D6015 (Boulevard de Leningrad), the main route in and out of the port. From here you can join the A29 for roads to the east, west, and down to Paris. Parking is available at the stadium and in the local neighbourhood; check the excellent Stade Oceane website for more details. There are also two parks and rides available. Once at the stadium like most modern venues access is relatively stress-free. Entry is by bar code tickets and inside the concourse areas are flat and easy to traverse. (Although there are steps to get up to the main stadium footprint outside the entrance). Return on Investment 4 £60 for return ferry tickets from Portsmouth, 100 Euros for the hotel, 9 Euros for the match ticket, and 8 Euros for the official program. Add in the food and refreshments and overall this trip represents decent value for money. Accommodation could generally be found cheaper in the future, the FIFA Women’s World Cup coming to town caused inflated charges on this occasion. Extras 3 Largest stadium in the Normandy region. Oldest surviving football club in France. The hotel was built into the side of the stadium. Final Thoughts The Stade Oceane, home of Le Havre AC, is hosting the 2019 Women’s World Cup matches. Take the time to visit this enjoyable city and venue.

Photos by Stephen Hoogerwaard, Stadium Journey Stadium Info FANFARE Score: 4.00 Parc des Princes 24, rue de Commandant Guilbaud 70156 Paris, France Paris St Germain website Parc des Princes website Year Opened: 1972 Capacity: 48,527 Pyro in Paris The Parc des Princes stadium in Paris holds a lot of history, and this isn’t all about football. The stadium is named after the Monarch’s hunting grounds that it’s built on, it was initially opened as a multi-purpose venue on the 18th of July 1897. It hosted the final stages of the Tour de France for decades since 1902 and there were many athletic events. The national football team started official games at the Parc des Princes in 1905. After rebuilding the ground in 1932 it was also used as a velodrome, but the current venue’s history began in 1967 when General Charles de Gaulle decided that Parc des Princes only should be used for football and rugby matches. Architect Roger Taillibert got the task to create a unique stadium for both disciplines. The current Parc des Princes was inaugurated on the 4th of June 1972 and became one of the world’s most unique venues and was way ahead of its time. Underneath its concrete shell, it holds a double-tier stand that runs all around the ground. The stadium has a seating capacity of 48,712 spectators and has been the home of the French football club Paris Saint-German since 1973. Paris Saint Germain is the main tenant of the stadium and is one of the biggest football clubs in France. Together with Olympique Marseille, they have the most fanatic supporters in the country. The various supporter groups, known as ‘Ultras’ are divided into different parts of the stadium. In 1984 the stadium was host at the European Championship and also hosted the final between France and Spain (2-0). So the first major prize in French national team football history was won by ‘Les Blues’ at the Parc des Princes. The stadium also hosted matches for the World Cup 1998, the European Championship 2016. Next year the Parc des Princes will host the opening match of the Women’s World Cup 2019. Food & Beverage 3 Inside the stadium are food and drink counters on ground level and the walkway before entering the second tier. There is a lot of variety of sodas or coffee. At high-risk matches, no beer is served. The choice of food is limited; you can buy French fries, hamburgers, pre-made sandwiches, or just some candy. At half-time vendors are on the walkway selling only sodas to minimize big queues at the regular sales counters. Atmosphere 5 France is usually not reputed for the quality of its stadia, but the Parc des Princes is a good example of a vibrant atmosphere. The Parisian stadium has benefited from the presence of a concrete roof hanging partly over the second tier and therefore has great acoustics. The atmosphere in the Parc des Princes has often been described by away fans as ‘true hell,’ relating to the deafening noise that Paris Saint-Germain supporters produce on match days and the pyrotechnics that are smuggled inside the ground. Neighborhood 4 The Parc des Princes stadium is located in the southwest of Paris on the fashionable edge of Bois the Boulogne and just half a mile south of the French Open tennis grounds of Rolland Garros. In this part of the city, you can find big lanes and good-looking apartments. It’s one of the better areas in Paris and it’s safe to park your car here. Fans 5 The fans of Paris Saint Germain are very passionate and are known for making a very good atmosphere inside the ground. Every supporter's group is housed in their section of the ground. The most vibrant groups occupy both stand behind the goal, the Kop of Boulogne to the south and Virage Auteuil and Authentics to the north. Away fans are housed in some kind of cage in the northwest part of the stadium. This away section holds a capacity of 2,000 spectators. The biggest rivals of Paris Saint-German are Olympique Marseille. Matches between these two French giants are marred with crowd troubles most of the time. During these matches there are safety zones outside the stadium, large police forces separating the supporter groups and there are lots of tifo-actions (banners and pyrotechnics) in the stands. Access 4 The Parc des Princes is easily reachable by metro (subway). On match days it’s also advised by the club to use this way of transportation. Just leave the metro at station ‘Porte de Saint-Cloud,’ from there it’s just a five-minute walk to the ground. In case you travel by car, the address of the stadium is 24, rue de Commandant Guilbaud, 70156 Paris. If you are lucky you can park your car somewhere within half a mile radius of the stadium (street parking). Return on Investment 4 Football in Paris is expensive. For a home match of Paris Saint Germain in the league (Ligue1) against the smaller clubs (like Lorient, Caen or Guincamp) you can buy tickets from Euro 26,- (seat behind the goad) till Euro 170,- (seat in the center of main stand next to the director's box). When they play bigger league opponents the ticket prices will increase dramatically. It’s easy to buy your tickets for a home match with Paris Saint Germain. Tickets for the matches at the Parc des Princes can be bought via the club site www.psg.fr or brokers at regular prices at http://www.francebillet.com/ or www.ticketnet.fr. For the neutral spectator, visiting a match of Paris Saint Germain is more than just visiting an ordinary football match. It’s a great experience! Besides the action on the pitch, there is also plenty to enjoy from the stands. Extras 3 When leaving the metro station ‘Porte de Saint-Cloud’ there is a Mcdonald's restaurant at the roundabout. You can buy your drinks and food for less money than inside the stadium. The Parc des Princes stadium has been built above the Boulevard Périphérique, this is the main ring road through Paris. This is another feature that makes the stadium even more special. Final Thoughts When you are on a city trip in Paris and have seen the Eiffel Tower, La Louvre, the Sacre Coeur Dame, and all the other great highlights of the French capital and there is still time left, please consider a trip to the Parc des Princes stadium and attend a match of Paris Saint Germain. You will be moved by the great atmosphere inside the stadium, it will surely make your city trip even more worthwhile.

Photos by Chris Tuck, Stadium Journey Stadium Info FANFARE Score: 3.57 Stade de la Libération Boulevard Eurvin, 62200 Boulogne-sur-Mer, France Union Sportive Boulogne website Stade de la Liberation website Year Opened: 1952 Capacity: 15,204 Ground hopping in Boulogne-sur-mer Many have passed through Boulogne in the north of France; how many can say that they’ve been to Boulogne? The town was known as the ‘gateway to the UK’ or the reverse for thousands of Brits arriving by ferry from the south coast of England. At best it was seen as a handy arrival port in which to leave again for the more romantic locations of Normandy, Paris, and the chic south. For Napoléon it was a staging post, a two-year dream to invade the UK which never came to fruition. These days a two-day visit is probably more realistic. Book your football tickets online and the town of Boulogne-sur-Mer, its football team ‘Union Sportive Boulogne’ and the wonderful Stade de la Liberation will not disappoint. Friday night football is the norm in the third tier of French football which provides numerous options for a long weekend on the Côte d’Opale and the possibility of groundhopping somewhere else on Saturday. Boulogne has a population of less than 50k and is known as a fishing port with a belfry that dates back to the 12th Century. Their main football team ‘US Boulogne’ came into being at the end of the 19th century, wearing their famous black and red from the beginning. They settled into their current stadium in 1952, hence the stadium's name. Food & Beverage 3 The French are renowned for their culinary prowess; that rarely extends to their football stadia. Unless you are a corporate ‘customer’ (their food looked good) you may well choose to eat elsewhere. The fan hub, based in a marquee behind the Tribune d’Honneur, sells crisps, sweets, beers, and soft drinks. Buy 10 ‘tokens’ for 10 Euros from the reception area and use them accordingly, ensuring you keep the branded beer receptacle as a nice keepsake. Other than that, a similar offering is available in the stand opposite, known as the tribune Frank Ribery (Yep that Frank Ribery, he was born in Boulogne and played at USBFC for two years in his younger days). The final option for sustenance inside the stadium is a large burger van, behind the goal where you enter the stadium, which provides the usual hot food options with generous portions. Just outside the stadium, two café bars next to each other provide good ‘liquid refreshment’ options. A swift half of Affligem at 6% in the Café PMU Les Marronniers is recommended. Then just sit outside, sip your beer, and watch the crowds arrive as the sun goes down. Atmosphere 3 As that same sun goes to work in a different hemisphere, the imposing and marvelous stadium floodlights come alive and beckon you in. Just over 3000 were in attendance against a team from the far south of France meaning little or no away fans for the match of this review. The stadium has seating on three sides only and without the modern ‘bowl shape’ the atmosphere can easily escape. When you walk in through the main entrance, it’s strange to be able to see the goalposts with just an athletics track and a large fence between you and the goalkeeper. The great thing about this stadium though is that it isn’t a modern bowl shape stadium. Instead, we have three distinct main stands in a horse-shoe shape, each with added enclosures at peculiar angles that give a nod to the eclectic. The huge bank of seats behind the goal at the far end remains out of use and looks a little tired. A bit like the away end at Craven Cottage may look in twenty years. Most of the crowd will be in the two main stands that run along the touchlines, each holding around 2500 people. Quite how 15k could fit in is not entirely clear but with average crowds of fewer than 3k, it’s not something USBFC has to worry about for now. Neighborhood 4 The stadium can be found just outside the ancient fortified town, adjacent to the war monument and up a very steep hill from the town centre and harbour. Aside from the hills, the town is easy to get around on foot and it feels safe to do so. Pre-match, a stroll through the Ville Haute is a good way to start. The city walls are still impressively intact and inside you’ll find some exquisite architecture. The Belfry is a UNESCO World Heritage site. L’Hotel de Ville (1734), Chateuex Boulogne (1231) and most impressively La Basilique Notre-Dame (1866) are all within a few minutes walk. The latter is known for its huge crypt, which becomes your landmark when you think you are lost and looks even more impressive when it’s lit up at night. Opposite, the basilica is the ‘Vole Hole,’ a tiny ‘cellar-themed’ bar that is worth frequenting, although, at 5 Euros for a Kronenburg, you know you are in the expensive part of town. As you leave the city walls you are faced with the huge and sobering war memorial paying tribute to thousands who lost their lives in the two world wars. Hotel and Air B& B options are very reasonable. The Ibis Budget Hotel is situated nearer to the harbour and is more than adequate. The Ibis Central is a little more expensive but just 500 yards from the stadium. The best restaurants are found in the old town, along Rue de Lille. If you don’t go native, there’s a trusty Indian restaurant called ‘Lal Qilla’ minutes from the stadium. Saturday morning and it’s time to explore Ville Basse, the lower end of town and the harbor area, completely rebuilt after the RAF sought to retain the advantages gained on D-Day. The main attraction, especially if you are with the family, is the Nausicaa, Europe’s biggest Aquarium. The grittier and even more defining landmarks however are the huge street art installations in and around the main shopping area. English artist David Walker is featured, a huge female face on the side of a block of flats is imperious. Elsewhere you will find the artwork high up on the sides of shop buildings and telecommunication cabinets on the side of the road do not escape. Walker, and other famous names such as Nikodem, Flag, and Marie Lou Peeren were invited to Boulogne to bring some sparkle and frankly, succeeded spectacularly. Their results are mesmerising. The street art turns what could be a drab, uninspiring shopping area into an uplifting, modern, and inspiring experience. With a beautiful sandy beach, the fish market, and ‘Musee 39-45’ (an acclaimed war museum) all in the vicinity you begin to see why Napoleon stayed so long. Fans 3 It’s a good time to be a fan of USBFC and fans are positive about the club’s future which hasn’t always been the case. Top of the ‘National 3’ and some exciting players displaying their talents, there are good reasons to be positive. Fans in the main stand are knowledgeable and warm applause is often the order of the day. The Franc Ribery stand opposite provides the more lively support but this is no cauldron of noise. Some ultras with flags try to raise the atmosphere but a nervy ending means it is always tentative rather than raucous. Watching a game here ‘under lights’ adds to the atmosphere of course and as it’s a Friday night, many could look forward to a couple of days off. Access 5 A visit to US Boulogne is far simpler than you may imagine. From the UK for example, you can be on the M25 at 1 pm and be sat in the bar opposite the Stade de la Liberation by 5 pm easily (even with the clock going forward one hour!). Eurotunnel prices for overnight trips are as little as £25 for a single whether you have 1 or 5 people in the car with you. From Calais, it’s just a 20-mile drive down the A16 and the views are decent too. On the way back if you have more time, take the coast road which takes a little longer but affords fantastic sea views and even a sight of those ‘white cliffs of Dover.’ The bus station is at the bottom end of town and the train station is just 10 minutes from the ground. Flixbus, the traveler’s iconic and air-conditioned friend, also calls here from Paris. Return on Investment 5 Highly recommended; especially if you can arrange a second stadium visit maybe at Calais, Lens, or Lille on Saturday. A trip from the south coast of England for example could cost you £50 in fuel, £50 for the Eurotunnel, £50 for a hotel, and then just your beer, coffee, and food. The great thing is that if there’re two of you the cost is halved! The match ticket cost 10 Euros (easily purchased and downloaded from the club website), a scarf is just 5 Euros and the programme is free. Extras 2 The huge scoreboard is a classic ‘European style,’ free-standing affair that is worth a photograph on its own. The standing areas at the back of the Frank Ribery Tribune are also a bonus for those who like to watch their football in a more portrait-than-landscape fashion. Final Thoughts The Stade de la Liberation has real character, looks great under the lights, and is located in a town that has plenty to explore. The tremendous street art provides a contemporary feel in what could otherwise be seen as a town beginning to feel sorry for itself. It is easy to get to, tickets purchased simply online and home games on a Friday night are also reasons to visit. With the football team in form and the ancient architecture to explore, groundhopping in Boulogne-Sur-Mer should be on your bucket list.

Photos by David Welch, Stadium Journey Stadium Info FANFARE Score: 2.71 Greenwood Baseball Field Campus Dr Asheville, NC 28804 UNC-Asheville Bulldogs website Greenwood Baseball Field website Year Opened: 1988 Capacity: 1,000 Greenwood Baseball Field – University of North Carolina-Asheville Bulldogs The adage “it is often the darkest before the dawn” might be the best way to describe the current status of Greenwood Baseball Field on the campus of the University of North Carolina-Asheville. Greenwood Field and the surrounding athletic facilities have been undergoing extensive renovation in recent years, so there is a bit of a pardon-the-dust-in-the-name-of-progress feel to the area. Members of the Big South Conference, the Bulldogs have played at their on-campus baseball field since 1988, when they moved from McCormick Field near downtown Asheville. Food & Beverage 2 The current concession stand that services the baseball field was built as part of the track and field facility, so it is set off a bit from the primary seating area, but conveniently located for fans along the third base side of the field. Concessions are a bit thin, consisting of hot dogs, popcorn, candy, and chips – other than hot dogs there is not much of substance when it comes to the food options. Beverages include Pepsi products, Gatorade, and Celsius energy drinks. Currently, beer is only sold on Friday and Saturdays. Atmosphere 2 While Greenwood Baseball Field continues to undergo facility upgrades, seating is a bit of an assortment of traditional bleacher seating, benches, and picnic type tables, and fans bring their own tailgate chairs. The lone bleacher section is adjacent to the visiting dugout; these bleachers include traditional aluminum bench seating and a second section of one-piece seats. During the facility upgrades, the game operations center (scoreboard operator, official scorer, and television production staff) are located in a makeshift press box, or more accurately press tent, behind home plate. Fans down the lines are treated to unobstructed views of the action on the field, but definitely need to be on their toes for sharp foul balls down the line. Greenwood Baseball Field is a natural grass field with grass basepaths up the first and third baselines. The field plays a bit short to the left field side with the fence sitting 320’ from home, with centerfield a touch short at 390’ – right field is a bit deeper than its left field counterpart at 330’. The outfield is encircled by an 8-foot-high fence from foul pole to foul pole. The field’s scoreboard sits beyond the left field wall; it is a basic royal blue scoreboard which provides fans with the inning-by-inning line score, run-hit-errors, and ball-strike-out information. The game presentation is as perfectly simple as it gets. Baseball is kept at the focus of the entertainment, and there is not the added distraction of sound effects throughout the game. The sun sets behind the first base side, so there is a bit of a sun field to contend with early on, but the nearby tree line helps to limit the impact the sun has on fans along the third base side. One of the biggest downfalls of the field though is there is no cover or shade to protect fans from the elements on a sunny, cloudless day. Neighborhood 4 The campus of the University of North Carolina-Asheville sits atop a steeply sloped hill, just north of downtown Asheville. The university’s athletic facilities are clustered in the southwestern corner of campus. Greenwood Baseball Field sits in the shadows of the Kimmel Center, the Bulldog’s home court for basketball. The upgraded facilities use a lot of stone and wood finish to help create a bit of a rustic, mountain cabin feel to them. Asheville itself is known as a haven of craft breweries with approximately forty in the area; a handful of those are just down the slope of UNC-Asheville’s campus. The town is also known for its eclectic artisans, who bring a unique culture to the city. There is also a great deal of history in the area – one of the most popular sites in Asheville is Biltmore Estate, which dates to the Gilded Age following the American Civil War. In another vein of history is McCormick Field, the third-oldest minor league baseball stadium still in regular use during the spring and summer months by the Asheville Tourists of the South Atlantic League. Fans 2 Despite a partially completed stadium that still has a great deal of progress to go, the Bulldogs draw fairly well. Fans are not overly boisterous when it comes to their passion for anticipated action in the game, but they do make their presence felt in reaction to Bulldogs scoring runs and overall good baseball plays. Access 3 The city of Asheville is in the Blue Ridge Mountains, and a quick walk around UNC-Asheville’s campus will feel every bit of the mountains of the surrounding area. Asheville is about halfway between Charlotte, NC and Knoxville, TN directly off I-40, so getting to Asheville is rather direct from either of these larger cities. Once on the UNC-Asheville campus, parking can be a bit challenging to find if you do not research it ahead of time. Due to the ongoing construction, there is only a limited amount of parking at the field itself. The usual lot used for baseball is currently housing heavy construction machinery, gravel piles, and other construction supplies. Pay close attention to the parking signage in the lot in the back of the Kimmel Center, as an announcement could possibly be made that cars not in parking spots will be towed. Parking on campus is free, but make sure to register your vehicle ahead of time. Parking at the field is limited at best, so the best bet might be the Campus Drive Garage, but it will still leave a bit of a walk to get to Greenwood Baseball Field. Return on Investment 4 At the moment there is no charge to attend games at Greenwood Baseball Field, and fairly priced concessions make attending games even more enticing. With that said, the only real investment you are making is time getting to Asheville itself. Even though most fans will not seek out a trip to Asheville just for the sake of going to a Bulldogs baseball game, the city itself will make a trip worth the time. Extras 2 The city of Ashville provides almost an endless number of adventures, especially those into outdoor activities, craft beer, or simply the free-natured spirit Asheville offers. The mountains over the first base side of the field set up for some beautiful sunsets, especially earlier in the season when the full spring foliage has not completely blocked the view of the nearby mountains. Final Thoughts The Greenwood Baseball Field upgrades have all the makings to create a beautiful ballpark; they just seems to be stuck in progress at the moment. The fundraising campaign has been ongoing for nearly a decade, but it seems that movement has been slow going. At the current point in the upgrades, most of the improvements have been player focused, as they should be – new dugouts, some player development facilities, and general field upgrades. There are still other upgrades to be made, however, and in due time Greenwood Baseball Field, or what the future name might be, will come together as a beautiful baseball facility. In its current state the fan experience is trending upward and steadily improving. The biggest question is, when will the full plans finally come to fruition?

Photos by David Welch, Stadium Journey Stadium Info FANFARE Score: 3.57 David F Couch Ballpark 401 Deacon Blvd Winston-Salem, NC 27105 Wake Forest Demon Deacons website David F. Couch Ballpark website Year Opened: 1956 Capacity: 3,823 David F. Couch Ballpark – Wake Forest Demon Deacons Baseball has been played at Wake Forest University since 1891, but life at its current home, David F. Couch Ballpark, goes back to just 2009 when it was known as Ernie Shore Field. Wake Forest took control of the stadium when the minor league Winston-Salem Dash began transitioning to their new home in downtown Winston-Salem, the current Truist Stadium. Affectionately known as “The Couch” to the Wake Forest faithful, David F. Couch Ballpark received a major 41,000-square foot upgrade along the third base side in 2017 that would include suites, a new clubhouse, player amenities, and the Wake Forest Pitching Lab, which is possibly the most technologically advanced facility of its kind in the nation. The investments in the baseball program at Wake Forest have helped propel the Demon Deacs into not just the top tier of teams in the Atlantic Coast Conference, but also the nation. Food & Beverage 3 The in-house concessions are not necessarily going to knock your socks off, but the food and beverages are saved by the wide selection of craft beers, as well as the food truck which is brought in each game. For fans who would be satisfied by the typical concession fare, The Couch has got those bases covered – hamburgers, hot dogs, chicken fingers, pizza slices, along with all of the typical snack foods that are native to sports facilities, are plentiful at the two concession stands. The craft beers, food truck, and outside food vendors who set up along the concourse also help bolster the offerings, and bring a touch of the Winston-Salem community into the ballpark. When it comes to the beers offered, fans will not find the mass-produced lagers that are commonplace at most stadiums; the Wake Forest beer selection is exclusively from local breweries and features the Wake Forest branded, Demon Deacon Brew. Atmosphere 4 David F. Couch Ballpark is a historic stadium that first opened as Ernie Shore Field in 1963. Given the age of the facility it has undergone two significant renovations, one in 1993 and the most recent in 2016. The latest upgrade totally redid the third base side of the stadium – not only did it create a state-of-the-art player development center and spaces for Wake Forest’s baseball operations, but it also added suites, upgraded restrooms, and concessions. After passing through the brick, arched entry way through the security check at the front gates, fans enter at the top of the seating bowl and are greeted by a well-framed view of the playing area. With a double-sided press and game operations box, the first view fans have is of the field and the large, golden “WF” logo in short center field. The stadium sits down a steep hillside and, much as it was when first constructed, the hill down the right field side remains. The facility has a strong theme of brick throughout, with the backstop around and down each of the lines having a short two-to-three-foot wall. Wake Forest plays on a fully synthetic field, from its grass to its dirt. The oddity of the warning track is that a change in the color of the turf itself would not be enough to alert fielders of an impending collision with the outfield wall, but upon closer inspection the ground is slightly sloped, to give fielders the change of feeling as they approach the wall. Unlike many collegiate baseball stadiums, which have a nearly symmetrical curved wall, David F. Couch Ballpark has an outfield wall with several nooks and crannies, outcrops, and angles. The wall juts out at more than a 45-degree angle from both foul lines, and has four separate offsets from left center around to right center; this creates fantastic opportunities for awkward carroms and challenges for the outfielders to contend with. At one point, the short distances down the lines were balanced out by a large, 24-foot wall, but it has since been removed in favor of a more standard 8-foot wall. The field definitely plays to the advantage of pull hitters; left field measures just 310’, while the right field wall is an even shorter 300’ from home plate. The seating bowl runs from the cut of the left field grass to midway down the right field line. Seats from the third base side to the start of the visiting team dugout are black, individual seat backs, while seating from the visiting dugout down the right field line are aluminum bleachers. If staying shaded is your top priority, any of the seats under the canopy behind home plate stay shaded most of the game, while seats behind the dugouts provide practically no shade. Front row seats do have a wide walkway in front of them, which does have a good amount of traffic throughout the game. When it comes to the game presentation, for the most part it is not cluttered by an overload of sound effects encouraging fans to get involved – the Wake fans do a good enough job on their own of getting and remaining involved in the game. Overall, the combination of stadium aesthetics, the level of game production put on by the game day operations staff, and the quality of the baseball on the field makes a game at The Couch an enjoyable experience. Neighborhood 3 Wake Forest’s athletic facilities are split into two separate neighborhoods; soccer, track and field, and volleyball all play on campus, while the university’s football stadium, basketball arena, Lawrence Joel Veterans Memorial Coliseum, the Wake Forest Tennis Center, and baseball stadium are all off campus, adjacent to the Winston-Salem Fairgrounds. Though this does take a bit of the college baseball feel away, it does not overly impact the excitement of the game. There are plenty of restaurants and hotels off University Boulevard, but the area does not give off a strong college community vibe. Wake Forest’s campus is just over a mile away, and downtown Winston-Salem is close to three miles. This section of Wake Forest’s athletics facilities is in a bit of limbo position between the two areas – even though the facilities are well concentrated off campus, the location does seem to impact the overall college feel. Fans 4 The fun of attending baseball at Wake Forest starts even before passing through the arched entry ways of the stadium – hours before first pitch, fans gather in the lower parking lot area for tailgating as younger fans organize a sandlot style baseball game. Inside “The Couch”, Demon Deacon fans are engaged with the game. Even a two-strike count in the first inning gets fans clapping, backing the pitcher to finish off the batter. Throughout the game, fans seem to be hanging on every big opportunity to get the go ahead run across the plate, or to will the team out of a jam. Wake fans are loud and passionate, and they remain that way from the first pitch strike and throughout extra innings. Access 3 The area around Wake Forest is just over three miles from downtown Winston-Salem. Greensboro is probably the most accessible airport to the area and is just a 30-minute drive. Winston-Salem and the surrounding metropolitan Greensboro area are well fed with interstate highways that make getting to Wake Forest rather easy. Once at the ballpark most fans park in the lower lot, which is a short walk to the front gates of David F. Couch Ballpark. The concourse is easy enough to navigate, but the first base side does tend to get a bit congested, mostly due to the concession lines backing up. The concourse along the third base side is more spacious, and the concession stand there is offset from the main walkway, so there is not the same issue with concourse congestion. Return on Investment 4 Weekday games are great deals, with tickets starting at $5 and concessions and Deacon Brews priced the same. Weekend series and conference games are reasonably priced at $10 for general admission seats and $15 for reserved seating. Ticket prices do increase by $5 the day of the game if purchased at the box office, so plan ahead when purchasing tickets. Extras 4 The manual scoreboard built into the left field wall is a nice touch; similar to Fenway’s Green Monster, the scoreboard has both the inning-by-inning line score and the current count, along with the number of outs (signified by colored lights). The Wake Forest Pitching Lab is one of the most technologically advanced facilities in the nation. While most facilities of its type would be exclusively for the team’s pitching staff, Wake Forest has made it accessible to the public – it is available for youth pitchers starting at age 12, all the way up to those in the professional ranks. The story of Kevin Jordan, former Wake Forest baseball player, and Coach Tom Walter’s donation of a kidney to him is chronicled on the concourse with a display on the back of the first base side press box. Just to the left of the front entry point is a monument recognizing inductees into the Greater Winston-Salem Professional Baseball Hall of Fame; some recognizable names include Wade Boggs, Mark Grace, Rico Petrocelli, and Earl Weaver. Final Thoughts Through their investments in stadium and facility upgrades, the Wake Forest Demon Deacons have been building a baseball program that is not just one of the top teams in the gauntlet of quality teams in the ACC, but also one of the top teams in the nation. These investments have not just benefitted the players who have come through the Wake program, but go a long way in improving the overall fan experience here.

Photo by Stephan Hoogerwaard, Stadium Journey Stadium Info FANFARE Score: 4.00 Estadio de Mestalla Avenida de Suecia, s/n 46010 Valenica, Spain Valencia Club de Futbol website Estadio de Mestalla website Year Opened: 1923 Capacity: 55,000 Viva Valencia It all started in 1919 when two friends were at Bar Torino in Valencia having a drink. They talked about football in Spain and found it very unfortunate that Valencia had no football club. During the following conversation the idea was born to start a football club and so arose the Valencia Club de Fútbol (Valencia CF). The first games were played in the old stadium Algiros, but the club was increasing rapidly and gained more and more popularity in the Orange city (nickname of the city of Valencia). It was decided to build a new stadium in the district of Mestalla. Estadío de Mestalla was opened on the 20th of May 1923 with a friendly match between Valencia and local rivals UD Levante (1-0). At that time the Mestalla stadium was the largest stadium in Spain. It could initially hold 17,000 fans but the popularity of the club was still rising so the stadium was expanded a few years after opening to 25,000 places. Since then, the stadium has been expanded many more times. Nowadays the Mestalla Stadium holds up to 55,000 places. The stadium is very steep, which gives spectators a feeling that they are always close to the action on the field. In 1982, the stadium was host for three group matches during the World Cup. Back in August 2007, the club started construction of a new stadium called ‘Nou Mestalla.’ Unfortunately for the club the completion of the new stadium has been delayed due to financial problems. Now sufficient funds have been found, the 2020/2021 could be the final year of Mestalla! Food & Beverage 3 There are many small food and drink counters inside the ground which sell different sodas (Coca-Cola is Valencia CF’s main sponsor). Beer is also sold inside the stadium, you can buy a local Spanish beer by the name of Estrella Damm for just € 2.50, this beer is served in a plastic glass. When you are hungry you can buy yourself a hamburger or a pre-prepared sandwich. Atmosphere 5 The Mestalla Stadium has everything for a groundhopper like myself. It is the oldest football ground in the Spanish Primera Division. Only the main stand is covered, it has an old rusty roof which gives the stadium its old charm. The other three stands have no roof and have been rebuilt many times. This is something which you can clearly see as additional tiers were added on existing ones. I have visited many stadiums in the Primera Division, for me the Mestalla Stadium is the second best ground in the country. It can only be topped by the Santiago Bernabéu, the stadium of Real Madrid. Neighborhood 4 Mestalla Stadium is located less than 2 kilometres (1 mile) east of Valencia’s historic city centre in the Mestalla district. This part of the city is a dense urban neighbourhood with many narrow streets with high apartment buildings. In the area around stadium there are plenty of tapas bars, cafés and restaurants. We ate at the ‘Q de Barella-restaurant’ (Address: Calle de Finlandia 7) and had a good pre-match three course meal for a reasonable price. Fans 4 The Valencia supporters gather hours before the match in the tapas bars and cafés. When these are loaded they gather in the streets around the stadium. When we were at the ground the police blocked the main street in front of the stadium for traffic because the Valencia supporters took over the street. Most of them drink beer and hold pre-match analyses talks with fellow supporters. The Valencia supporters are very loyal supporters. The last three years the club has an average gate from around 40,000 each season. Valencia’s attendances are among the top 5 highest in the league. Access 4 From the city centre the Mestalla Stadium is easy to reach. It is located less than 2 kilometres (1 mile) east of Valencia’s historic city centre. When you walk from the Plaza de Toros in the historic city centre it takes you no longer than 20 minutes. You can also take the metro line 5, there is a metro station (Aragón) just next to the stadium. Metro line 3 is less than a 5 minute walk from the ground. There are also several busses which can bring you to the Mestalla Stadium. Valencia’s international airport is also connected to the Valencia metro network, so when arriving by plane you can travel in less than 35 minutes to the ground. I think travelling by car to the grounds is not really an option as I haven’t spotted many parking places around the stadium. Return on Investment 5 Valencia, just like many clubs, operate a category scheme for ticket prices. Ticket prices for lower and mid-table opponents vary depending on the opponent and range from € 25,- to € 90,-. The most popular games against top teams or against local rivals are the most expensive to watch. We enjoy the passionate atmosphere made by the Valencia supporters and we enjoy the old Mestalla Stadium very much. When you visit a match in Spain just treat yourself to a bag with pipas (sunflower seeds) because everyone in the stadium is eating those. Extras 3 Just want to sit in the dugout, walk around in the VIP area, watch the stands and the field, the presidential balcony, trophies or see the dressing rooms? Discover one of the oldest stadiums in Spanish football. This all can be done during a tour, the Mestalla Stadium offers self-guided tours with the name: ‘Mestalla Forever Tour.’ Adult ticket price € 10,90 and for children € 8,50. For more information, check the club’s website. Final Thoughts All the sights in the city like the cathedral, the bullfight arena, the Lonja de Seda (silk house) and the Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias are worthwhile visiting. But when you can add a home match of Valencia CF in the old Mestalla to your trip, it would be really the icing on the cake. Make sure you hurry up before this historical stadium will be demolished, I’m sure it will make your trip to Valencia even more memorable.

Photos by Chris Tuck, Stadium Journey Stadium Info FANFARE Score: 3.71 Estadio Santiago Bernabeu Avda. de Concha Espina 1 28036 Madrid, Espana Real Madrid C.F. website Estadio Santiago Bernabeu website Year Opened: 1947 Capacity: 81,044 Stunning Estadio Santiago Bernabeu The city of Madrid was a reluctant capital city. The apparent scarcity of architecturally grand buildings and monuments testify of its lateness to the world stage. Madrid, it is said, is more about the people than its beautification. These truths are turned on their head, the minute you arrive at the famous Estadio Santiago Bernabéu. This iconic football stadium, the 6th largest in Europe, has a grandeur and presence that demands your attention. From the outside you can tell it is going to be special; it is only when you step into the arena that you understand what all the fuss is about – stunning! The brand of Real Madrid and Santiago Bernabéu transcend the city of their birth. Although fiercely proud of their roots, a visit to the Bernabéu is a bucket list event in a globalised world. This member’s owned club (known as socios) was founded in 1902 as Madrid Football Club, their famous white kit in evidence from the beginning. The title ‘Real’ (royal) was given to them by the football-mad King Alfonso (13th). Initially the club played at grounds including Campo de O’Donnell and Campo de Ciudad Lineal but ultimately a larger ground was required. Opened in 1947, the Santiago Bernabéu became home (although the name, dedicated to clubs president, wasn’t introduced until 1955). Over time it has become one of the most iconic stadiums in the world. After years of talk, in 2018 it was finally agreed the stadium was due a refurbishment. This being Real Madrid, the refit was announced with a YouTube video already watched by over 1 million people. The £500 million revamp will be built up and over the current structure and will include wraparound LED lightning and a retractable roof. Work is due to start in the summer of 2019 so plan your trip to the current stadium now and then come back ready to be even more impressed in 2024! Food & Beverage 3 Outside the stadium the most popular food on sale seems to be packets of sweets! The stadium itself has four restaurants within its confines, Asador de la Esquina, Puerta 57, Real Café Bernabéu and Zen Market. Book in advance, telephone numbers are on the club website. Alternatively, refreshment kiosks are dotted around inside the stadium selling the usual football fayre including popcorn for the tourists. If you want to blend in then bring your own sunflower seeds to nibble during the game! Atmosphere 4 Los Blanco’s (Real Madrid) are used to winning. Very used to winning. They currently have 33 La Liga titles to their name and, their proudest record, 13 European Cup wins (Champion’s league in new money). Thirteen! Incredible! The reputation for winning coincides with a reputation for signing galactico’s who add to the expectation that the club will conquer all before them. As you enter the stadium itself the view will take your breath away. Seats at the very top of the stadium (the cheapest) provide an incredible view around this vast enclosed coliseum of football. The four sides of the ground are named Rafael Santiago (north), Padre Damian (east), Concha Espina (south) and De la Castellina (west). Inside all merge into one wraparound bowl-shaped arena with mostly blue and some white seats. The west stand also contains the museum and trophy rooms. Whilst away fans are not as part of the football culture here as the UK or Germany our game had over 2k away fans nestled in the top two tiers of the south stand providing a vocal and passionate support. The home atmosphere is generated by Madrid fans at the north end of the ground. Expect cheers when things are going well and deafening whistles when they are not! Neighborhood 4 The stadium can be found in the Charmartin district of Madrid, north of the city centre. Aside from the stadium, the other attraction in this area is the distinct ‘Gates of Europe’ towers that peer down onto the Plaza De Castilla. You can see them in the distance from the Bernabéu but to visit simply walk 20 minutes to the north of the stadium using the Paseo de la Castellana. The Charmartin district is a rich and exclusive area with a business park containing four of the tallest skyscrapers in the whole of Spain. The ‘105 Cafeteria’ sits opposite the metro entrance and is perfect for a pre match beer and burger as it is not too busy. A burger and chips basket costs 6 euros, steak and chips 10 euros, eggs bacon and chips 7.50 euros and a small Mahou cerveza (beer) is 2.50. Across the road from the Café 105, behind the south stand, is another popular bar called the Volapie. Aside from the match however most visitors will not spend a lot of time in this district. The centre of Madrid including the ‘royal’ and ‘old town,’ Triangulo de Arte (for the three main museums) and the area around the Gran Via metro stop will give you a better glimpse into the ‘city of cats,’ a nick name from medieval times that applies these days too as Madrilenos love to stay up very late! Cathedral de la Almudena and Royal palace of Madrid are two must-see iconic buildings in Madrid. The Cathedral in particular is a fabulous piece of architecture, consecrated by Pope John Paul 2nd in 1993. Eating establishments across the city are plentiful. A fashionable place to eat is the Market of San Miguel which sells an array of seafood, wines and beers which you can pick at as you move from stall to stall. Bring a coat just in case though as the sides of the large iron structure are open to the elements. Elsewhere in Madrid, the largest queues are for the Tacos! For a less ‘local’ meal try the Ribs restaurant on Calle De La Abada, just around the corner from the Plaza Del Callao. There are various accommodation options within a stone’s throw of the stadium such as Holiday Inn Madrid, or AC Hotel by Marriott Aitana. If you are here for other matches too or just to see the Madrid sites then a more central option is Hotel Anaco in the Gran Via area of the city. Many football fans will take the opportunity to visit another match whilst in the city. TV schedules dictate and finalise the La Liga kick off times around a month before match day and the smaller games sometimes don’t have a kick off time confirmed until a week before the game. To counter this, book flights Friday-Monday and a visit to two or three new grounds is easily achievable. After the team’s poor home form during the 16/17 season, the club started a ‘singing section’ behind the southern goal. The Grada fans, the most vocal, moved down from the higher tiers and agreed to stand for the entire 90 mins and wear a white Real shirt. The improvement has been a positive one with the singing drowning out the moans and groans typically associated with such expectant supporters. Fans 3 Founded in the 80s, Madrid Ultras Sur has a reputation for trouble and was reported to be involved in skirmishes before recent matches against Barcelona, Athleti and Malaga. Hala Madrid will be heard throughout your visit – roughly translating to ‘Come on’ or ‘go’ Madrid! Just 48,446 attended the 18/19 season opening match v Getafe, the first match without a certain Cristiano Ronaldo, the late kick off time on a Sunday night did not help. In 17/18 season the average attendance was 65,653 second only in La Liga to fierce rivals FC Barcelona (65,824). Access 5 Fly into the Adolfo Suárez Madrid–Barajas Airport, (Madrid–Barajas) which is situated in the northeast of the city and is served by the cities efficient metro system. The nearest train station to the stadium is Nuevos Ministerios, it is south of the ground and a 10 – 15 minute walk away. To the north is Charmartin station but that is 3k from the Bernabéu so not the best option. The nearest metro is Santiago Bernabéu on line 10 (the blue one) which brings you right outside the stadium. To avoid the queues, particularly after the game, you can walk west to the Estrecho metro stop which, south bound, will take you back to the city centre. You could also catch a bus. These numbers all take you close to the stadium, 14, 27, 40, 43, 120, 126, 147 y 150 Tickets can be purchased directly from the club website. If you plan to visit a number of matches here, pay 35 euros to become a Madridista and get priority when tickets are released. For matches unlikely to sell out you can buy tickets on arrival at the ticket office. For La Liga fixtures there are a myriad of prices, starting at 45 euros behind the goals and 60 euros along the sides. Tickets will be either print at home or a QR code sent directly to your phone. Tickets are numbered beginning with 100 which is the lowest tier to 500 which is the top tier. As you enter the stadium there are a plenty of steps up and down into the different sections of the stadium. If you have mobility issues do contact the club in advance. Return on Investment 3 On the face of it, a trip to Madrid either booked yourself or via a travel company such as ‘football breaks’ will not break the bank. Hotel tickets and flights for a less glamorous fixture can be purchased for just over £200. However, stay the whole weekend, add a couple of other matches and then pay ‘capital’ prices for your food and drink and the money will soon begin to drain. As such, a visit to the Bernabéu may well be more in the ‘trip of a lifetime’ category than a cheap weekend of groundhopping! Extras 4 Tours of the stadium are available at 25 euros for adults. Tours can be booked online and reduced versions (without changing rooms) are available on match days. The tour includes the press room, the presidential box, the tunnel and benches plus amazing views of the pitch. The prestige of the stadium is such that it has hosted the national side, champions league finals, European and world championship matches. The club shop situated at the north end of the stadium is, of course, huge and every possible item you can think of can be purchased with a Real Madrid logo on the front. Club shirts sell the world over however at 100 euros+ you’d need to factor them into your Madrid visit budget! Printed match day programmes are available inside the stadium for free. The 28-page glossy ‘Grada Blanco’ provides an excellent memento of your visit. Final Thoughts The stadium and the city are even more impressive than any pre-visit research suggests. Whilst there isn’t the ‘San Siro’ wow factor outside the stadium (it is still very impressive), once inside you will be glad you came. The four steep stands provide an imposing yet intimate atmosphere that bowls such as Wembley Stadium fail to muster. The city of Madrid, too, has more interesting architecture, street art and positive vibe than the guide books might suggest. To enhance the trip still further check the fixtures for La Liga clubs like Real Vallecano, Club Deportivo Leganés, Club Atlético de Madrid and Getafe Club de Fútbol to make it a double. Alternatively there are numerous lower league sides you can visit in Madrid, a visit to Unión Adarve on the west of the city is recommended.

Photo by Rik Sharma, Stadium Journey Stadium Info FANFARE Score: 3.57 RCDE Stadium Av. Baix Llobregat, 100 Barcelona, Spain 08940 RCD Espanyol website RCDE Stadium website Year Opened: 2009 Capacity: 40,500 A Shiny New Home for the Marvelous Minority Espanyol have always been FC Barcelona’s rivals, since being formed in 1900. In Franco’s era, the Catalan capital’s second side were viewed as being more in league with him than the Blaugrana were. To this day, Spain flags are waved in the stadium. The ground itself is new, with Espanyol starting to play there in the 2009-10 season onwards. Their previous homes were, until 1997 Estadi de Sarria, and then in the Lluis Companys Olympic stadium at Montjuic between that year and 2009. They see themselves as the ‘marvelous minority,’ in the face of Barcelona’s power. Food & Beverage 3 The concession lines are often long, but the service is friendly. You have to queue up, order and pay, before shuffling along to another window to pick up your order. The food options are fairly standard for Spanish venues. As well as a selection of snacks, like popcorn, crisps, sweets and chocolate, there are some sandwiches. These are in the traditional “bocadillo” form, i.e. crusty bread with a thick filling. The options are cheese and bacon, Spanish omelette and ham. There is also a hot dog on offer, for €3.50. The sandwiches vary between €4 – €4.50. Coca-Cola is offered, along with Coke Zero, orange and lemon Fantas. Coffee and hot chocolate are available, as is chocolate milk and water. The latter is €2, while the other cold drinks are €3.50. Hot drinks are around €2. The hot chocolate is nice on a cold day – it’s thicker than you might expect. Atmosphere 4 The stadium is rarely, if ever, full. However, considering the empty seats, the fans generate a decent atmosphere. Given the stadium is relatively new, as you would expect it has good sight lines in almost all places. There are two electronic scoreboards which usually show the teams and who has been booked or not. There is not usually any special entertainment on offer. Because the stadium has gaps at the top, plenty of wind gets in. That means warm days can become cool in Cornella, and cold days can be freezing. Dress with warmer clothes than you think you may need. All areas are covered. Neighborhood 4 Cornella is a 20-minute metro ride away from Barcelona’s city centre. Fans are recommended to stay there, rather than in the immediate vicinity of the ground, because of the huge number of tourist options. However the actual area around the stadium is not too bad either, especially with the Splau shopping centre open right next to the ground. In the Splau shopping complex there are plenty of options, including La Tagliatella, for pasta and pizza, Tommy Mel’s for burgers and American cuisine, and Udon for Japanese. The latter is a good bet, with generous portions. There are also other options, including Rodilla sandwich shop, BBQ Ribs, which does what it says on the tin, and a Mexican joint called Panchito. There is a cinema in the shopping centre, but not a whole lot else to do around Cornella. Instead, in Barcelona you can visit the beach, the Sagrada Familia cathedral and plenty of more tourist activities. The best place to stay would be in Barcelona itself, with access to the blue metro line if you want to get to Cornella quickly. Around the neighbourhood of Sants would be an ideal spot. Fans 3 Espanyol fans are passionate, even if that passion is mainly directed at hating Barcelona. Visiting during a Catalan derby would give you a good look at the bile that game produces. The stadium is usually half-full, with around 20,000 people in attendance. That rises steeply for the visit of big sides, like Barcelona and Real Madrid. In the 21st minute of every game the fans clap, for the memory of Dani Jarque. He was a former captain of the club, who died August 2009 of a heart defect. The 21st minute is chosen because it was his shirt number. There are two sections of fervent support, one behind each of the goals. The ‘ultras,’ if you will, though there is rarely any trouble. Access 4 The stadium is fairly easy to navigate and access from all sides. Inside movement is easy. The best way to get to the stadium is on the metro from Barcelona, L5 – the blue one. There is a 15 minute walk to the stadium after that – just follow the fans. However, you can also get the trains from Plaza Catalunya or Sants, which go closer still. Return on Investment 3 Espanyol don’t have any great players and most visitors to Barcelona don’t bother with Cornella. However, for football fans who want to see how the other half lives, it’s worth a trip. Arriving at the stadium is cheap, with a metro or train ticket costing a maximum of €2.50. Snacks at the game are averagely priced for Spain, with a sandwich and a drink setting you back around €7.50. Actual tickets are likely to set you back between €40 and €75, depending if you sit behind the goal or along one of the sides, respectively. . Extras 4 You can have a tour guide show you around Espanyol’s stadium, which is both cheaper and less busy than the equivalent at Camp Nou. As well as a short 3D film about the club’s history you get the usual trips around the dressing room, the tunnel and more.

Photos by Chris Tuck, Stadium Journey Stadium Info FANFARE Score: 3.71 Merkur Spiel Arena Arena-Straße 1 40474 Düsseldorf, Germany Fortuna Dusseldorf website Merkur Spiel Arena website Year Opened: 2004 Capacity: 54,600 Alles aus Liebe Fashion, finance, and Fortuna are just three reasons people visit Dusseldorf. Add the renowned local Altbier, the picturesque Aldstadt, and some amazing avant-garde architecture, and your 1970s stereotype of Dusseldorf as an industrial relic quickly vanishes. The Esprit-Arena, home of the mighty Fortuna since 2004, encapsulates the transformation. All proper football fans mourn the passing of old grounds; Fortuna supporters will remember the magnificently named Flinger Broich with a smile. It’s now completely redeveloped and still used for second X1 and occasional cup matches. Another old home was the cavernous RheinStadion, which hosted five matches in the 1974 World Cup. However, just as this beautiful city in the North Rhine-Westphalia area of western Germany now sparkles with renewed self-confidence, the city’s beloved football team also has a new ultra-modern, multi-purpose stadium to be proud of. Built between 2002-2004, its capacity of 54,600 makes it one of Germany’s largest stadiums. The design came from JSK Architekten who was also involved in the impressive Municipal Stadium in Wroclaw, Poland. From the outside, the Esprit-Arena is distinct due to its square/boxed ‘wrap-around’ which suggests a cinema complex or shopping centre rather than a football stadium. “Concerts, shows, football, and hockey - The Merkur Spiel-Arena is proud to host to a broad range of events” boasts the stadium website, suggesting it is “Dusseldorf’s prime address for large-scale events.” Stadium Journey arrived with eyes only for the football and to glimpse a club whose fans profess ‘Alles aus Liebe’ for their famous team. Food & Beverage 3 It is good to see a different approach to serving refreshments inside the stadium. Firstly, there are numerous kiosks ensuring plenty of options. Secondly, they are ‘free standing’ with curved serving counters. This approach spreads the queues in a far more efficient way than the traditional ‘hole in the wall’ layouts that often cause frustrating blockages in the concourse area. Chips, bratwurst, pretzels, and currywurst are all on the menu as you’d expect. Soft drinks are available, but most will go for the local Altbier. It’s darker than the pilsner beer you often find in Germany with a more distinctive taste. Prices are reasonable, or maybe we’ve all just got used to 4 Euros for a beer and 6-8 Euros for a sausage and chips. My recommendation is always the currywurst, a local favourite which is a sausage covered in curry sauce. Not the easiest to eat standing up if you are on the terrace. It’s also quite spicy so keep that Altbier to hand too. Atmosphere 4 Fortuna topped the second tier of the Bundesliga on the day of our visit in early 2018, which had a positive influence on the atmosphere. It is striking just how joyful Fortuna supporters are, not just inside but also on their way to and from the stadium. The lack of away fans in attendance on the day (just 100 had made their way north from SV Sandhausen) also contributed to an atmosphere that was more ‘party-like’ than cagey or tense. Inside, the retractable roof provides cover from inclement weather, as does a unique heating system installed to ensure a variety of events can be held here. When empty, the speckled, different coloured seats with no discernible pattern differentiate it from the branded colourings most stadiums now have. The match day atmosphere comes in the first instance from the home terrace, but the rest of the ground certainly does its bit too. The scoreboard provides all the usual updates and the tannoy system provides all the key information and encourages the crowd to support their team. The view from the seated areas is excellent as you’d expect; the civilised way to watch football these days. For the less civilised (as I very much count myself) it’s all about the terraces, where it’s less about seeing every moment of the action and more about being part of the action. On our visit the terrace swayed, bounced, cheered, and groaned in unison; a good old-fashioned raucous atmosphere ensued. Neighborhood 4 The Merkur Spiel-Arena is a classic ‘out of town’ stadium. There’s very little to see or do in the immediate vicinity. Most visitors will have some time to explore as well as watch a game so some time in central Dusseldorf is a must. If it’s the fashion you’re after, head to Konigsallee; Gucci, Burberry, Chanel, and all the ‘must-have’ labels are all open for your business. For people watchers, look out for visitors from Saudi with seriously deep pockets who can often be found perusing the upmarket shopping arcades. The Financial area can be found in the Stademitte area of the city. The city leads in the telecommunications sector with many of the big mobile phone companies setting up home here. Business visitors may also be in town to visit one of the numerous trade shows that base themselves in Dusseldorf. For the architecturally minded fans, take a stroll around the MedienHafen district in the south of the city. The harbour area retains its old wharfs and cranes that served the city so well now standing strong and proud in retirement. A tour around the MedienHafen area is available for 12 Euros. The ‘Evangel. G Johanneskirche’ is also a wonderfully bright and striking building nestled in amongst a sea of bars just off the Bolkerstrasse. Dusseldorf sits on the confluence of two rivers, the Dussel and the Rhine, Dussel giving the town its name and ‘Old Father Rhine’ of course one of the longest and most famous rivers in Europe. Areas of the waterfront have been opened up in recent years. This allows locals and visitors to stroll or have a lazy latte as the fast-flowing Rhine heads north and west towards its North Sea end. To see the local Altbier up close and personal there is a special tour available which takes you to five microbreweries across the city. For just 27.50 Euros you can become an expert and of course, try a sample or three along the way. For nightlife you do not need to leave the Aldstadt area of the city; we counted at least 5 Irish bars within a square mile and there are over 200 bars, restaurants, breweries, and cafes in this buzzing district of the city. Of course, Dusseldorf is famous for its ‘longest bar in the world,’ due to the wall-to-wall bars that creep up the Bolkerstrasse. Alternatively, for a slightly more sophisticated evening, the architecturally impressive MedienHafen also boasts a growing number of bars and restaurants. There is a small alley called Schneider-Wibbel-Gasse just off of the Bolkerstraße with some excellent steak houses, tapas, and pizzerias. We went for the ‘Da Primo,’ the food was good and the service was fast and friendly. For even faster food try ‘What’s Beef’ on Immermannstr. 24, 40210 Dusseldorf, it will certainly fill you up. There are accommodation options in good proximity to the stadium; in fact, the Tulip Inn is built into the stadium complex. It’s probably more for business travellers than sporting aficionados but if you want a short commute this one is for you! We’d recommend an apartment as close to the Altstadt as possible giving you access to the river, the shops, the restaurants, and the bars and only a 20-minute ride to the stadium. One recommendation is Tolstov-Aparthotels (Old Town Burgplatz) which is clean, roomy, and just right for the needs of a stadium traveler. The best Twitter account for tourism tips would be the @VisitDusseldorf account and their accompanying tourism website. We will leave the last words of this section to local poet Heinrich Heine, who described his hometown simply as “Very beautiful.” Fans 4 Fortuna (or F95) fans liken themselves to the UK’s Newcastle United, a ‘big’ club often underachieving, a city emerging from its industrial past and famous for a distinctive local dark brew (although the Geordie’s Newcastle Brown is now made in Holland…). The main rivalry for Fortuna fans comes from FC Koln in the south and Duisburg in the north. In the top flight expect Dusseldorf matches to sell out, in Bundesliga 2 the ground will often be less than half full. Average attendance in the past few years has hovered around 25,000. As recent as 2013/14 the average was 33,982 and for derby games and cup matches expect games to be close to sellouts. We stood in the Sudtribune end of the ground right in amongst the Fortuna ultras. Welcomed by the locals we joined in with the best array of songs I’ve heard for a long time. The word Fortuna fits into so many tunes that despite not having great German we could sing along for most of the match. The best songs are simple and our favourite is; “For, for for for for for fooooor… Tu, tu tu tu tu tu Tuuuuu, Na Na Na Na Na Na Naaaa…..Foooortuuuunaaaa” Closely followed by the same words set to an old English Hymn. On occasions, we were also encouraged to stoop down (not easy on a packed terrace) as we whispered a song before rising to our feet as one as the volume rose and again Fortuna! was the loud refrain. The fans sang from beginning to end with both corners also joining in. Despite only 20k in attendance at the game, we saw the noise was still stirring. A great fan Twitter account to touch base with if you heading to Dusseldorf would be @UKFortuna who will happily suggest where to drink and how to get tickets etc. Access 3 At least three airports (Flughafen) serve this industrial corridor in the west of Germany, often described as the ‘engine room’ of Europe. Bundesliga football clubs are abundant in the area and so scheduling more than one match during your stay is a must. Dusseldorf airport should be your plan A; it is one of Germany’s largest. Located just 8 km north of the city, the S-Bahn will whisk you into the centre of Dusseldorf in just 16 minutes. We chose Koln/Bonn airport transferring via the S-Bahn which took just 46 minutes into Dusseldorf Hauptbahnhof. However, it is worth stopping off, as we did, in Koln just to see the magnificent cathedral which was once the tallest building in the world. You can view this splendid structure which took 632 years to build, from the comfort of your seat on the train just after you cross the Rhine. We’d recommend hopping off the train and spending an hour exploring this incredible monolith whilst grabbing a local pastry or a franchise Starbucks for sustenance. The third option is the Dortmund airport, also within range if you are comparing prices. It's only an hour’s train ride south to Dusseldorf (once you have transferred from the airport to the city centre). If you are arriving by car from the south use the A57 / A59. If you arrive from the north use the A 52 / A3 and the arena is well signposted. Parking options are provided on the Merkur Spiel-Arena website. From the centre of Dusseldorf, the Esprit-Arena is located 5 km to the north. Take the U-Bahn (Rheinbahn) line U78. The stadium has a dedicated stop all of its own and is located at the end of the line. The station is called "Merkur Spiel-Arena / Messe-Nord." It’s just a 20-minute ride from either the main Hauptbahnhof or Altstadt. Your match day ticket covers the cost of the transport so you don’t pay for the journey. As there is very little to do near the stadium, you will be joined on your way in and out of the town centre by locals carrying their beer bottles and singing their songs, making for an entertaining if a little squashed journey. Despite the box-style facia of the stadium, the concourse area layout is the same as most bowl-shaped arenas, allowing access to your block from entrances around the perimeter of the pitch. If you have specific accessibility requirements, you can apply for free parking at the stadium. The Esprit-Arena is also barrier-free and lifts are available. Contact the club before you travel if you require more information. Tickets can be purchased from outlets across the city; a map is available on the Fortuna website. Alternatively, there is a ticket hotline you can call or of course buy online, again via the website. Prices for adults start at just 13 Euros, an excellent value for the money. Prices rise to 46 Euros, but there are plenty of mid-point tickets for less than 30 Euros. Return on Investment 4 A visit to the Esprit-Arena is cheaper than its English equivalents. As with many modern stadiums though, expect merchandise and food to be a euro or 2 more than it's worth. For a stadium and city as impressive as Dusseldorf I’d suggest you don’t let cost prevent a visit. With cheap flights into the region, sometimes as low as 20 Euros, trains that allow you to use your football ticket to travel plus a cheap match day programme and you’ll understand the attraction of visiting this area for a match or two. Match day tickets in Bundesliga 2 start from 13 Euros, which is admirable, but expect to pay more for top-flight matches. Buying your beer en route to the stadium rather than paying stadium prices is another way locals save money on the experience. Extras 2 To get a more detailed history of the stadium and see some of the ‘behind-the-scenes areas you can book a tour. Public tours start at noon every Sunday unless there is a match on. You will need to pre-register for the tour via the Merkur Spiel-Arena website. Visit the club shop at the ground or online for an array of F95 products. There’s an LED logo for 20 Euros, a Fortuna Dusseldorf Monopoly set for 30 Euros or a Fortuna seat cushion for just 4.95 Euros. Final Thoughts The impressive cuboid façade, the purpose-built train station beneath one of the stands, the plethora of refreshment stalls, and the ultra-modern retractable roof mark this stadium out as one to add to your list. Upon arrival though, it’s hard to shake the feeling that you could just as well be attending a concert or a show. This isn’t how football is supposed to be. The real transformation is revealed when the supporters arrive. Add flags and choreographed chanting, add the energy of a pulsating, packed terrace, add the on-field action and perhaps an Albier or two, and only then does the stadium come alive. With the bright lights of Dusseldorf calling you back after the game and the possibility of a visit to another nearby cathedral of football like the Veltins-Arena in Gelsenkirchen or the RheinenergieStadion in Koln, you will not regret your visit one bit.

Photos by Chris Tuck, Stadium Journey Stadium Info FANFARE Score: 3.71 Weserstadion Franz-Böhmert-Str. 1 Bremen, Germany 28205 SV Werder Bremen website Weserstadion website Year Opened: 1924 Capacity: 42,354 The Weserstadion I love Bremen... but it didn’t start well. It’s a cold and grey winter day. I have just 24 hours to discover what makes the Weserstadion a German favourite and ascertain what this gritty north-western port city has to offer. As I arrived on my train from Hamburg, an impressive ‘up and coming’ city, Bremen refused to entice or court me with any obvious landmarks, style, or allure. Outside the Hauptbahnhof (central station), six lanes of tram tracks, buses, and cycle paths on the pavements each sought to end my visit to Bremen before it began. A less than salubrious onward walk plus a shifty looking ‘room-mate’ in my hostel and I’m considering surfing the net for an early flight home. At this point, I’m concluding that if a football team mirrors its city’s characteristics then Werder Bremen, or the ‘green-whites’ as they are known, will be an uncompromising and feared opponent. The first sight of their 40k-plus stadium, nestled on the north bank of the River Weser however reveals such an imposing and classy grandeur that it’s clear there’s far more to Bremen than first meets the eye. History suggests the same, whilst WB has struggled recently, with their better players poached by newest rivals Schalke, they’ve only once not been eating at the ‘Bundesliga top table.’ Their 4 league titles, 6 cups, and a 1992 European Cup Winners Cup win make them one of Germany’s top clubs. The Weserstadion, their home patch since 1909 is full for most games. Food & Beverage 3 Eating and drinking at the stadium is an intrinsic part of the German football experience. A ‘beer and bratwurst’ is mandatory. If you buy inside the ground remember to first acquire (and load with cash) a ‘Werder Card.’ Then use the card for all purchases at the various catering outlets. As a UK supporter, this seems an unnecessary additional transaction and another queue to ‘enjoy’ but it is normal across Europe and you can buy outside if it bothers you. Outside the ground, catering stalls can be found behind the north stand (Gates 4-8) and behind the west stand (Gate 11), providing the usual sustenance options. Back inside ‘Hunger & Durst’ catering outlets provide bratwurst (a mild smoked pork sausage) at 3.30 Euros, currywurst at 3.50 Euros, and krakauer (a smoked and cured sausage with garlic) at 3.30 Euros. You can get some brezel (a glazed brittle biscuit) for 2.50 Euros and for some matches, they also have some frikadelle im brotchen (Meatball rolls). Hunger & Durst also provides a variety of drink options: soft drinks come in at an expensive 4.20 Euros, coffee 2.50 Euros, and Becks and Haake Beck (a low alcohol version) are 4.30 Euros. In the south stand, drinks can also be purchased from a supporter’s bar that does a brisk business serving Becks into special club-branded containers which you can keep as a memento or return and get some cash back. If you’d like to avoid queuing for a werder card, then try offering a supporter 5 Euros cash at the bar and use their card, job is done. Atmosphere 4 The atmosphere at the stadium is positive, even when Werder is experiencing a tough season. With only a small ‘away’ allocation it is left to the home fans to make the majority of the noise. Weserstadion has hosted international football but was sadly overlooked as a venue for the 2006 World Cup. A recent interview with former player Sandro Wagner suggested playing at the Weserstadion “still makes the hairs on the back of his neck stand up.” The ground has been developed many times over the years; football was played here as far back as 1909. The most recent upgrades began in 2008 and have bequeathed an impressive stadium. A request to add a third tier however proved too costly. If that were to ever go ahead this really could be up with the best grounds in the world. A ground with no real ‘bad views,’ the playing surface was lowered during the last renovation which helps sight lines and gives a ‘close to the action’ feel, lacking when the ground had an athletics track in years past. Two LED video screens provide the information you need including ‘goal flashes’ from other Bundesliga games, this adds to the atmosphere as relegation rivals' goals are jeered and, when they concede, cheers. The unique features of the ground are the floodlights. Sixty-one metres high, peering down into the ground like ticketless schoolboys striving to get a view of the action. The other unique string in the Weserstadion is environmental; the stadium website explains best: “The centerpiece is a state-of-the-art photovoltaic system, which consists of a total of 200,000 solar cells and blends harmoniously into the construction concept. The system covers an area of ​​more than 2 football fields and generates up to one million kilowatt hours of electricity per year. This efficient use of renewable energies significantly reduces CO2 emissions and thus relieves the burden on the environment." Neighborhood 4 The Weserstadion is southeast of central Bremen, however, it’s by no means an ‘out of town’ ground. The size of Bremen means that the use of the trams or buses isn’t necessary during a visit but of course, they’re available if needed. Location means a lot to football fans, being able to walk from your city centre to the ground and straight back afterward is an attractive component of a fan’s match day experience. Three main areas are recommended to be explored during a visit; Viertel, Schlachte, and Alstadt. Viertel is an upmarket area with bars, restaurants, and coffee shops. If you stay in central Bremen it’s on the way to the ground as well. Coffee Corner (on the corner of Vor dem Steintor & Am Dobben) does exactly what it says on the packet and is great for people watching too! Further east along Vor dem Steintor is Bellini’s, a great Italian restaurant that shows Sky Sports. Schlachte has several bars and restaurants overlooking the River Weser. With Beck’s factory on the opposite bank, seemingly looking over your shoulder, you’ll feel bad ordering anything else (nonalcoholic versions available). Red Rock bar provides a lively atmosphere and shows the Bundesliga Friday night match. You can visit the Beck’s factory by the way and of course, the tour involves a little sampling. Altstadt (old town) is impressive and by day you need to tick off the town hall and Roland statue, both UNESCO world heritage sites, and St Petri Dom (cathedral) in the market square. Seek out the Spitzen Gebelin bar in a side street adjacent to the square, a 14th Century gothic townhouse, badly damaged in World War II. A trail you could take heads from the Aldstadt to Viertel then on to the Weserstadion. Stroll from the marketplace through the delightful windy lanes of Schnoor, numerous craft shops and bars are well worth a visit. Then head to Tandour restaurant, highly recommended by the locals, before continuing along Am Wall for the Kunsthalle Bremen art gallery featuring Rembrandt and Rubens no less. Then it’s the Theatre am Goetheplatz (however if it’s theatre you want the Theaterschiff, a theatre on a boat moored on the River Weser is worth experiencing). Continue along Am Wall, it’s a road that also provides some interesting street art and graffiti. The road becomes Ostertorsteinweg and that’s where the Irish bar Hegarty’s can be found. Deceptively large, there is a great atmosphere with the standard Irish singer and his guitar. At this point on the walk you are back to Coffee Corner and the Viertel area, another recommended bar here is Bermuda, especially when it's happy hour. Then continue to the Taubenschlag to meet the fans. Accommodation-wise, Townside Hostel is more than adequate (just up the road from Coffee Corner), but the City Ibis at 60 Euros a night might be more to your liking. Worth noting the Bremen tourism website is excellent and a must-visit if you are going to come to Bremen. Fans 4 Werder has a passionate and knowledgeable fan base that is proud of its Hanseatic status. The numerous ultra-groups add spice of course, many of whom drink in the Taubenschlag and other nearby bars just up the Auf Dem Peterswerder from the ground. Rivals of old are the mighty Bayern Munich, local rivals are Hamburg, and the newest addition to the list of rivals is Schalke. Capacity at the Weser is 42,100 and Werder fans' regular support means they average over 40,000 per match each season. The fans behind the goal on the east side of the ground (Ostkurve) make most of the noise, choreographed by a new loud hailer. This area of the ground is standing and the chants keep coming, the most spine-tingling when they call out ‘Werder’ and the west stand replies with ‘Bremen,’ over and over again. Then add all the usual songs and tunes you’d expect. As a fan from England, it’s always great to hear the Germans singing ‘Football’s Coming hHome’ which they do heartily before the game begins. A goal for the home side is followed by the sound of a fog horn and then ‘The Proclaimers” are blasted out on the tannoy singing 500 Miles, random but brilliant. Access 4 The size of Bremen means you don’t necessarily need to use the trams or buses once during your visit, but of course, they are there and available to use if needed. There are various ways to get to the Weserstadion; Walk – One route to get to the stadium is to walk along the Weser River, just 1 kilometre from the Aldstadt. The ground gradually comes into view and for night games those impressive floodlights beckon you in. Boat - One better than that would be to arrive by boat, prices from as low as 3.50 Euros and you can board from various locations – more info on the Bremen Tourism website Tram - Better to be in a tram than under one, so you can take the number 3 to the Weserstadion stop. Car - Cars are restricted near the ground however beyond that try north of the ground or use one of the parks and rides. Train – It’s a 40-minute walk from Bremen Hauptbahnhof. Fly – Bremen airport is very close to the city center so that’s your plan a. If you fly into Hamburg airport, it’s a 20-minute train ride into Hamburg Hauptbahnhof followed by an hour train to Bremen. Tickets can be purchased online from the club website and if you are on the ball, they are no problem to purchase. Once in the concourse areas, toilets and catering facilities are all within easy reach. If you have specific access issues then contact the club before you visit. Return on Investment 3 Tickets range in price depending on the category of the game. For a category 2 game expect to pay between 30-50 Euros with terrace tickets even cheaper. Buy online from the club website which includes a print-at-home option. Overall a trip to Bremen is good value. The Bundesliga is still cheaper than the English Premier League and often the atmosphere eclipses its UK counterpart. The Proclaimers' song played after the Bremen goal is worth the admission fee alone. Of course, it’s not cheap. We all know that lower down the football ‘food chain’ there are grassroots clubs that provide a warm welcome at a tenth of the price. However, in its context and maybe with a match where there are a higher number of traveling fans, the Weserstadion will be rocking and you wouldn’t be worrying too much about the amount you spend. Extras 3 Museum – There is a club museum within the north stand. Make time to visit if you can. Tours – Similarly if you are in Bremen for a few days you can book a tour of the stadium. Programme – Full colour, A4, 36 pages, and surprisingly good for mainland Europe, which isn’t noted for its programme par excellence. Final Thoughts Bremen is an open-minded, honest, and traditional city, and the football stadium and the team share those features. After an enjoyable week in Hamburg, enemy territory for Bremen fans, followed by an inauspicious introduction to the city, I leave with a heavy heart. Why? Because this place gets under your skin. Yes, there are fewer ‘bright lights’ than in Hamburg, but gems like the Market Square, the Schnoor and the huge mural of an old couple looking out on the city from the corner of Auf Den Hafen and Eduard-Grunow Starbe are irresistible. Then there is the walk along the river Weser towards the stadium, which is hugely evocative. From almost a kilometre away you can see it’s special, but as you get closer and closer its imposing shape and positioning do impress. I met a proper Bremen fan too, humble, fun and so welcoming that I’m not leaving early, I’m left wishing I could stay a while longer, and you will too.

Photos by Chris Tuck, Stadium Journey Stadium Info FANFARE Score: 3.71 Stadion An der Alten Forsterei An der Wuhlheide 263 12555 Berlin, Germany FC Union Berlin website Stadion An der Alten Forsterei website Year Opened: 1920 Capacity: 22,012 Fashionable Football in the Forest Current football fashion dictates that a trip to Berlin demands a visit to FC Union and the Stadion An der Alten Forsterei. Across the city, Hertha Berlin attracts larger crowds, has a greater stadium capacity, and plays in the higher league. However, it’s FC Union and their compact 22,000-seat Kopenick home that’s captured the imagination of football fans across the continent. Stadion An Der Alten Forsterei (translated to the stadium next to the old foresters house) opened in 1920. Terraced on three sides there are just 3,617 seats, all located in the main stand (haupttribune). The stadium has been the focus of redevelopments over the last 30 years which have resulted in a modern, bright, and fit-for-purpose stadium. Early versions of FC Union have played football in the city since 1906. It wasn’t until 1966 that they fixed upon their current name. They played their football in the East German ‘Oberliga’ in the days when city rivals Dynamo won 10 titles in a row. The accusation that Stasi chief Erich Mielke helped ‘ensure’ Dynamo Berlin were champions brought forth a rivalry that lasts to this day. After the wall came down, financial hardships meant it was 2009 before Union climbed to their current level in Bundesliga 2. It was my first visit to the city of Berlin and it captured my heart. I knew it would. The history, the architecture, the landmarks, and the street art all exceeded expectations, the bonus being numerous other football stadiums you should visit whilst you’re in town. Food & Beverage 3 Entering the stadium perimeter through sektor 3 gives you immediate access to stalls selling a variety of refreshments. Visit an outdoor grill to purchase your bratwurst, then an adjacent stall for your beers and Coca-Cola. Queues are short, the price is tolerable and the quality of the bratwurst is excellent. This sector allows external access around to the corner of the haupttribune stand and further catering outlets are available on each corner. As there are several steps to then enter the stadium itself, you could choose to buy your refreshments from kiosks inside the stadium, making it slightly less likely that you will spill your beer. If you can’t wait, then upon arrival at the local Kopenick S-Bahn station, try the impressive Forum shopping center opposite the station where you can grab a pastry and espresso. You will also see pockets of fans outside bars dotted around the area with slightly stronger pre-match beverages. Back in the centre of Berlin of course there are numerous culinary options. If you travel down from Alexanderplatz then there is a Coffee Fellows on the corner of Dircksenstabe with the usual sustenance available and it’s a great place for people to watch too. Atmosphere 4 The atmosphere is generated by the fans behind the goal in the Waldseite (sektor 2) helped by the fan choreographer and an enthusiastic PA announcer. Fans in the rest of the ground join in and impressively keep up the singing throughout the game. A good turnout by the away fans can help the atmosphere too. A seat in the main stand will give you a cracking view of the action and outside, the opportunity to view one of the finest-looking facades in European football. Built-in 2013, the design is almost castle-like and is an imposing, eye-catching stand. The other three stands are functional and nondescript in comparison. They are, however, home to three sides of glorious terracing from which nearly all the atmosphere emanates. It is so refreshing in these ‘all-seater’ days that a renovation hasn’t spelled the end of the terrace. The roof/coverings are also low, which helps keep the noise reverberating around the stadium. Finally, the proximity of the fans to the pitch also helps. With no running track or big gaps between the stands and the pitch, it ensures players have little doubt about what fans require of them. Neighbourhood 5 The stadium is located in a mainly woodland forest area, however, Kopenick itself has all the local amenities you need. If you choose to stay in central Berlin, it is a great place to base yourself to explore the rich history and various other stadiums dotted around the city. Much has been written about this great city which this review refrains from competing with. Instead here’s a quick run-down of what we recommend. One highlight is walking along Karl Marx Allee, a preserved Soviet-style boulevard with wide streets and wedding cake architecture. Next, head to the Stasi Museum in Lichtenberg, preserved just as their imposing offices were left; it provided an incredible insight into their inner workings. Whilst there take a peak at the decrepit but fabulous HOWEGE Arena, home of SV Lichtenberg 47. The Berlin Wall memorial and Mauer Park market should also be high on your list. Take the U-Bahn from Alexanderplatz to Eberswalder and you’ll be immediately impressed with the fantastic floodlights of the Friedrich-Ludwig-Jahn-Sportspark. If you can catch a game there, it’s the old stasi team ‘Dynamo’ you need to look up. I went to a regionalism match on a cold Friday night with around 1,400 others. It’s a great stadium with a superb graffiti wall. The Mauer market on Sunday morning can be found next door to Friedrich-Ludwig stadium. It’s an incredible mix of stalls selling clothes, artwork, toys, etc. with food also available from around the world. I went for an Argentinian beef sandwich followed by coffee from the ‘Coffee Ape’ mobile stall. When you are finished you can stroll down Bernaeur Street to see the remaining parts of the Berlin Wall. They have done a tremendous job of communicating the enormous heartache caused by this imposing monolith, now thankfully consigned to history. Of course whilst in Berlin you should also check out the Brandenburg Gate, The Bundestag, The Jewish Memorial, Checkpoint Charlie and the list just goes on. Finally, ‘Street Food Thursday’ in the fantastic Markthalle Neun gives you a fantastic array of dinner options, from pulled pork sandwiches to octopus. Simply turn up, wander around, and dip in and out of the various stalls until you are full. The nearest U-Bahn is Gorlitzer Bahnhof. Our base for our 4 days in town was an apartment right outside Hallesches Tor U-Bahn station, just one stop south of Checkpoint Charlie. Whilst it was technically in the stylish Krezsberg area, the locality was a bit run down. It more than suited our needs though, we even had a pub on the ground floor of our block and a coffee shop three doors further down the road – perfect. Fans 5 Not many fans can attend a match and tell their kids they helped build the stadium that they stand in, that they’ve sat on a sofa on the halfway line and watched a World Cup game, or that they’ve donated their blood to help ensure the club doesn’t go bust. This though is FC Union Berlin (nickname Eisern Union ) whose fans certainly don’t agree that convention is something to follow. The anti-establishment feeling comes from that old rivalry with Dynamo and the German 50+1 ruling is something they cherish; not seek methods to get around. So far in 17/18 average home attendance is 21,170, In 16/17 it was 20,859, just under 20k the season before. In short, attendances are consistently good and any promotion to the top flight would bring pressure to increase that stadium capacity of 22,012. Access 3 Schonefeld Airport is 20km south of Berlin and you can catch a taxi into town which takes around 25 minutes and costs 40 Euros. Alternatively, Tegel Airport brings you into the northeast of Berlin and it’s a similar distance into the centre of Berlin. To get to the stadium, the train is your best option. From Hallesches Tor, take the U-Bahn east to Warschauer Stabe. Then you cross over the bridge to board an S3 metro train heading southeast, you’ll probably be seeing plenty of home fans by now, clutching their bottles of beer and bedecked in red and white. You can also board the S3 from more central locations too like Alexanderplatz, and journey time is between 30-50 mins depending on where you get on. You can buy tickets for the Berlin transport system from machines at each station. The whole system works on trust so there are no barriers anywhere, but plain-clothed staff will be around to check whether you have paid. Once you’ve disembarked at Kopenick (Zone B) you can pick up the match day programme at the entrance to the station, easing any worry you may have about whether you will find one. From the station follow the fans on a ten-minute walk which will feel more like a nice stroll in the countryside than a walk to the football. It’s worth noting that to get into any of the three terrace sectors you will need to climb several steps. At the top of the steps you enter the stadium at the very top of the stand, then climb down the steps to your place. If mobility is an issue contact the club first or consider buying your ticket in the haupttribune. Your ticket may be for M, N, O, P, etc. but no one is checking so you can choose whichever view you like. We stood in Sektor 3 or ‘Gegengerade’ as it is also known, close to the noisier fans behind the goal to our right. If you travel to the stadium by car you will want to miss central Berlin. If traveling from the west exit Autobahn 10 and use the address 12555 Berlin, An Der Wuhlheide 263 on your navigation device. From the east it's Autobahn 113 followed by the same final address. There isn’t any parking at the ground but there’s some in the vicinity. It looks quite busy by kick-off time so perhaps arrive early and take in the atmosphere. Return on Investment 4 Terrace tickets cost just 16 Euros each, which is decent value for the whole experience. Refreshments are reasonably priced although, on the merchandise front, a scarf set us back 15 Euros which seemed a little steep. The programme is 2 Euros and the local transport system is pretty cheap. Berlin itself is, of course, going to cost you a few Euros, particularly if you spend time around the tourist areas. Extras 2 The club shop will sell you all the usual merchandise you may require. If you like the more eclectic gift, there’s an FC Union toothbrush or an FC Union spirit level. Perfect for your builder friend who has bad breath. Each Christmas, the stadium also hosts a carol-singing event that has gone from fewer than 100 attendees to almost a full stadium. Hymn sheets are provided and visitors travel from all over to this rather unique event. Final Thoughts Berlin, what a city! Four days isn’t enough! I’d recommend you take with you one of the excellent David Young East German fiction thrillers Stasi Child, Stasi Wolf, or A Darker State. I took the latter. The descriptions of East Berlin in the books are vivid and thrilling as you walk the same, mostly unchanged, streets. Whilst in Berlin, Stadion An der Alten Forsterei is a stadium you need to tick off. A first-rate club doing some exceptional things in a superb city. The unique and attractive frontage of the stadium, the lusty atmosphere, and the forest location do make this a great venue. Fans are friendly and the commute from Berlin to Kopenick, followed by the stroll to the ground all add to the intrigue and anticipation. The only real ‘problem’ is the raised expectation before you arrive. Maybe I’m just contrary but once something becomes fashionable, I head to the road marked unfashionable. Many argue that Berlin football hasn’t hit the heights a city of this stature should; they are probably right. Nevertheless, there is a richness to the football culture in Berlin that goes far deeper than the need for trophies, glory, of course, manifests itself in many different ways. So do visit this atmospheric ground, but make sure you also visit the Friedrich-Ludwig-Jahn-Sportspark and HOWEGE Arena too if you are a fan of the tumble-down and not just the trendy.

Photos by Stephan Hoogerwaard, Stadium Journey Stadium Info FANFARE Score: 4.57 Signal Iduna Park Strobelallee 50, 44139 Dortmund, Germany Borussia Dortmund website Signal Iduna Park website Year Opened: 1974 Capacity: 81,360 Germany’s Big House The Signal Iduna Park is the largest soccer (football) stadium in Germany which seats 81,360 spectators. Opened in 1974 as Westfalen Stadium it is the home of the football club Borussia Dortmund. Before that time Borussia Dortmund played their home matches in the Stadion Rote Erde (which means ‘red soil’). This outdated stadium became quickly too small for the growing number of spectators of the club in the sixties (fortunately the old stadium is still there and lies next to the east stand of the Signal Iduna Park). Initially, there was not enough money for a new stadium, but because the city of Dortmund was designated as one of the host cities for the World Cup in 1974, the funding did come around. The stadium was completed in 1974 and was named Westfalen Stadium (named after the state of North Rhine-Westphalia). On the 2nd of April of that year, the stadium opened with a friendly match between Borussia Dortmund and their big rivals FC Schalke’04. At the time of the opening, it could hold 54,000 spectators (17,000 seats and 37,000 standing). During the 1974 World Cup, the Westfalen Stadion hosted three first-round group matches and the second-round group match Holland vs. Brazil 2-0. Several years later the north stand was converted into an all-seater stand leaving only 42,800 places remaining inside the stadium. In the mid 90’s there was the beginning of several conversions of existing stands; by adding extra tiers to these stands there were more places created. In 1997 the capacity of the Westfalen Stadion was 68,800. The most recent renovation began in 2002 when the four corners of the stadium were closed for the approaching World Cup in 2006. At that time the stadium held just over 82,000 places. On the 1st of December 2005, the Westfalen Stadium was renamed Signal Iduna Park. The insurance company Signal Iduna connected its name to the stadium in return for providing financial support to Borussia Dortmund. In 2006, Signal Iduna Park was one of the playing venues of the World Cup 2006 which was held in Germany. During the tournament, the stadium was converted to an all-seater stadium, which temporarily brought back the capacity to 67,000 seats. During the tournament, the stadium hosted four group matches, one round-of-16 match and the semi-final between Germany and Italy. After some small adjustments in the 2010-2011 season, the current stadium capacity is 81,360 spectators. We visited the Supercup 2017 match between German giants Borussia Dortmund and FC Bayern München (2-2). Bayern lifted the trophy after a penalty shoot-out. Food & Beverage 4 Besides a large variety of bratwurst, hamburgers, and pizza slices at one of the many counters inside the stadium, there is also a large choice of drinks. Lucky us, because at the match of this review, it was over 30 degrees Celsius this day. A cup of 0,3 litre tea or coffee cost € 2,70 and half a litre of still water is sold for € 3,20. All sodas are sold in one size (0,5 litre), for a Fanta or Coca-Cola you pay € 3,50. One plus and one minus about the drinks, usually in German stadiums you have to pay a deposit for the cup in which your drink is served. But at this special match, there was no deposit needed. Unfortunately, there was no beer available inside the ground, we could only buy half a litre of Brinkhoff’s light beer for € 3,70. That was a bummer. Atmosphere 5 Well, what can I say, the atmosphere during this big match was great. The stadium was packed to the rafters. The Dortmund supporters were very vocal on this day. Maybe they were fired up by their early lead as US-star player Christian Pulisic scored the first goal of the match for Dortmund. The Süd-tribune (known as ‘Gelbe Wand’ or Yellow Wall) is impressive; it has room for 25,000 standing places…the largest of its kind in Europe. Neighborhood 4 The stadium is located 4 kilometres south of the city of Dortmund next to the Westfalenhalle (a large indoor arena and conference centre). Just a short 100 metres behind the north stand there is a pedestrian overpass across the motorway E40 which brings you to a good residential area (Kreuzviertel). Here you can find a lot of pubs and good restaurants. We can recommend restaurant Mongo’s in the Lindemannstrasse, which is less than a 10-minute walk from the stadium. Fans 5 Bayern München brought over 5,500 supporters to this first match of the season. Before the match, both home and away fans mingled and met in the various ‘beirgartens’ around the stadium. Inside the stadium, the away fans are housed in the northeast corner of the stadium (seated) and on the lower tier of the north stand (standing). The most fanatic home supporters are located in the Süd-tribune (south stand). Access 5 The Signal Iduna Park is located 4 kilometres from Dortmund’s city centre. Arrive by car at the stadium early to park at the Wittekindstrasse (following Motorway E40 from the west). From here it is a 10-minute walk to the stadium. In the suburbs surrounding the stadium, there is street parking everywhere. When you decide to travel from the city centre to the stadium, you can go to Signal Iduna Park by train or by U-Bahn (metro). There is a U-Bahn stop called Westfallenhalle which is closest to the stadium. Return on Investment 4 We paid € 43, each for tickets which is in my opinion quite expensive for 90 minutes of soccer. The tickets for this big fixture varied from € 15,60 for a standing place at the Süd-tribune to € 69, for a seat on the halfway line at the West stand. For this match, one could also buy business-seat tickets, but they were sold for € 350, each; this was way beyond our budget. Extras 5 The tickets for the football match can be used as public transport tickets as well, up to three hours before and after the match you can travel for free by tram, bus or metro to the stadium. There is a brand new fan shop on the corner of the North and East Stand where you can buy almost everything you can imagine in the club colours. The Süd-tribune is unique. During match days the Borussia fans are all dressed in yellow shirts (the club colours of Borussia Dortmund, yellow shirt, black jersey). That is an impressive sight! Final Thoughts Borussia Dortmund has the largest stadium in Germany and is always sold out. If you want to experience the true German football culture then the Signal Iduna Park is the place to be, you can find it all here!

Photos by Stephan Hoogerwaard, Stadium Journey Stadium Info FANFARE Score: 3.71 BayArena Bismarckstraße 122-124 51373 Leverkusen, Germany Bayer 04 Leverku sen website BayArena website Year Opened: 1958 Capacity: 30,210 The BayArena, A Pharmaceutical Story The BayArena is a football stadium in Leverkusen, Germany. Since the 23rd of April 1958, it’s been the home of Bundesliga club Bayer ’04 Leverkusen. The original name of the stadium was ‘Ulrich-Haberland-Stadion’ (named after a former president of Bayer AG, a pharmaceutical company and founder of the club). The capacity was originally 20,000 seats. In 1986 the stadium was renovated and converted into a modern sports facility. The renovation process went on very slowly as a small part of the stadium was discussed (a terrace behind one of the goals). Due to this discussion, the renovation took more than a decade to complete. In 1998 the stadium was renamed BayArena. In 1999 a hotel was built partly inside the complex. Some rooms and the restaurant of the hotel overlook the field. At last, the renovation was completed. At that time the capacity was 22,500. In 2009 the stadium expanded with a second tier and a brand new roof. The old green seats were replaced by red seats. The capacity today is 30,210. The municipality Leverkusen offered itself as the host city for the World Cup 2006. At this stage, the stadium was too small, but there were plans to expand the BayArena to 40,000 seats. However, this proved not to be practical. It would mean that on normal match days, the stadium would be half full, so the municipality withdrew. No bid for the EC 2024 has been made. Food & Beverage 3 The price of food and beverages inside the BayArena is slightly overpriced. If you want to drink and eat on your day out, then I would suggest one of the ‘Beergartens’ outside the ground. When you buy your drinks inside the BayArena, you need to buy a BayArena Card. This card is free but you have to deposit Euro 10,- first. After that, you have to charge your BayArena Card before going to the beverage and food stands. As in most of the new German stadiums, there is a large variety of beers, sodas, hot dogs, hamburgers, and bratwurst. After the match, you can return the card and get your deposit and balance back. Atmosphere 4 Although Bayer Leverkusen is a rather small club in German football (soccer) and has a small supporter group, the atmosphere during matches is quite good. The acoustic is boosted by a very impressive roof overhanging all stands of the stadium. The fanatic Leverkusen supporters are housed in a large standing area behind one of the goals. Neighborhood 4 The BayArena is situated in central Leverkusen, near where the A1 and A3 motorways intersect. The stadium lies between the Leverkusen Stadtpark and a large Sportpark in a rather green area. The river Rhine is less than 2 kilometers away from the ground. In the city centre of Leverkusen, there is not much to do, but you can take a train from Leverkusen Schlebusch station and get off at Cologne’s main railway station. This is just a 15-minute ride. The historic Cologne city centre and Dom are worth a visit. Fans 4 The atmosphere before the match is very friendly. Supporters from both clubs mingle around the ground and meet in the Biergarten to discuss the forthcoming match. Leverkusen has one of the smallest supporter groups in the Ruhr area. Most of the clubs in the Ruhr area are living in the shadow of German giants Borussia Mönchengladbach, FC Schalke’04, and Borussia Dortmund, which have the largest supporters groups and larger stadiums in the Ruhr area. Access 3 The BayArena lies adjacent to the A1 but doesn’t have an exit. The stadium is best reached from the A3; take exit ‘Opladen’ but then you have a problem finding yourself a parking space. In the few streets in the area, there are only private parking spaces for residents. Therefore Bayer offers free parking on Kurtekotten two hours before the start of the game, this parking place lies directly on the overground metro station ‘Bayerwerk’ (S-Bahn). Get off at stop ‘Leverkusen Mitte,’ the BayArena is a 10-minute walk from this point. You just have to cross the Stadtpark. Return on Investment 5 Tickets are priced in three categories which depend on the opponent. We have paid Euro 35,- for our ticket on the long side of the pitch (Block B1, 1st tier). For top matches, these places will cost you Euro 60-, but for less attractive opponents you will pay € 24,- for a ticket. We bought our tickets online via the Bayer Leverkusen club site. As my father went along with us, I was able to buy concession tickets (over 65’s) for him. This ticket was Euro 11,- cheaper than my ticket. The BayArena is a very modern football arena with all the facilities you should expect from a modern football ground. From every seat in the stadium, you have a good view of the pitch. A visit to the BayArena is a worthwhile sports Euro investment. Extras 3 As with most of the Bundesliga clubs, Bayer Leverkusen also offers stadium tours. A mentionable fact is that Bayer offers five kinds of different tours. You can book a classic tour, a kids tour, a barrier-free tour, a classic-plus tour, or a special tour. The classic tour which is the most common and can be booked for Euro 10,- (adults), a legends tour will cost you Euro 15. Final Thoughts When you visit a match of Bayer Leverkusen and you have a couple of hours spare time, then please do go to the neighboring city of Cologne. This city has so much more to offer than the Leverkusen city centre. Combining a match in the BayArena and a visit to the Cologne city centre is a very good combination, but keep in mind that there are a lot bigger clubs that can be visited in the Ruhr area.

Photos by Chris Tuck, Stadium Journey Stadium Info FANFARE Score: 3.57 Stade Pierre-Mauroy 261, Boulevard de Tournai, CS 70678 59656 Villeneuve d’Ascq, France Lille OSC website Stade Pierre Mauroy website Year Opened: 2012 Capacity: 50,000 A Visit to Les Dogues Planning permission for this futuristic-looking stadium was gained in December 2009, with construction beginning in March 2010. A total of 51,100 seats were installed in April 2012 and the stadium was completed three months later. Initially known as Grand Stade Lille Métropole, the stadium changed its name in 2013. The new name was to honour Pierre Mauroy, a French cabinet minister and local politician who died earlier that year. Lille OSC was founded back in 1944 as a merger between Sporting Club Fivois and Olympique Lillois. They’ve played at various stadiums over the years including Stade Henri-Jooris and Stade Grimonprez-Jooris. During that time Lille won the top French league (Ligue 1) on three occasions, the most recent in 2010/11 with a certain Eden Hazard pulling the strings. ‘Les Dogues,’ as they are known, have also won the Coupe de France on six occasions and the UEFA Intertoto Cup once (2004). The stadium was used for six games during Euro 96 and has hosted concerts by Celine Dion, Rihanna, and Depeche Mode amongst others. It can also be adapted into five different configurations to host rugby, basketball, handball, and even Davis Cup tennis. Food & Beverage 4 Outside the stadium, restaurants and kiosks provide good nourishment options. The Stade Mauroy is an ‘out of town stadium,’ but the norm seems to be to head to the ground and soak up the surprisingly chilled atmosphere. An English-style pub called The Factory, a wine bar, Japanese cuisine, and pizza are all found in an area called the terraces opposite the main club shop. Additional food outlets include a quick burger restaurant, a panini café, and a Subway. You can eat from a stall serving sausage & chips, beer, and soft drinks and sit outside, catching the last of the day’s sunshine. Inside, there are the usual catering outlets ready to take your money. Each seems to serve something different. The queues move very slowly, so you’ll have to be patient or very hungry to eat at the stadium. Prices for a Parisienne or rosette baguette and a soda is 7 Euros. Atmosphere 4 Architect firm Valode & Pistre, together with Pierre Ferret, were involved in the designs for this striking modern stadium, and they did a fine job. The roof is retractable (in just 30 minutes). The pitch is sunk one tier below ground level and so from the outside the stadium does not look particularly imposing. Incredibly, the playing surface is built on massive tracks that hydraulically lift the pitch, making a more intimate capacity of 30k, all in the top stand. There is a huge screen built into the outside of the stadium which has a covering of around 12,000 polycarbonate tubes and 70,000 LED lights. Solar panels on the roof help to make the stadium self-sufficient. Inside the stadium, there are three tiers, with numerous hospitality boxes situated at the back of the second tier. The noise is generated from the ultras behind both goals, starting with a rousing rendition of the club anthem to the tune of ‘Amazing Grace.’ The view from the corner of the third tier is good. The lower tier has quite a meagre incline, but in the top tier, the steep steps ensure that you feel part of the action. Neighborhood 4 During our visit, we had the choice to eat in the centre of Lille, outside the stadium, or inside the stadium. We chose all three! In Lille, there is a fantastic rooftop restaurant called ‘Le Garden’ situated in the historic centre, Vieux-Lille, On a sunny day, you’ll find a relaxed atmosphere, helpful service, and excellent cuisine. Hotels, restaurants, and large car parks are all available on the footprint of the stadium meaning if time is tight, you can avoid the city completely. The recommendation however is to make time. Lille is the tenth-largest city in France and fourth largest metropolitan area. In 2004 it was named the European Capital of Culture and is often known as the ‘Capital des Flandres.’ Visit the excellent tourism website before you set off. Here you can find details for the 24 and 48-hour City Tourism Pass, which provides unlimited access to 28 attractions across Lille and admission to the local metro, tram, and bus. Be sure to spend some time in Vieux Lille (old Lille), the medieval city centre. It is the cultural heart of the city with cafes, restaurants, museums, old cobbled streets, and some great architecture. Make sure you tick off Lille’s UNESCO world heritage site – the 104-meter-high Bell Tower attached to the Hotel de Ville. It provides excellent views over the city and is one of 23 belfries in the north of France (and one in Belgium) recognised by UNESCO. The city has numerous museums and art galleries. The Palais des Beaux-Arts Museum is a beautiful-looking building and second only to the Louvre in Paris. Pop in to catch a glimpse of a Rubens or a Rembrandt. Lille was traditionally a textile city and if you or the partner want to shop, head to the ‘Grand Place’ area of the city and you will find thousands of shops wanting to help you part with your Euros. If you prefer markets, the Wazemmes is the one to head for. For accommodations, the Mercure Lille Centre Grand Place is in a good location and has some good reviews. If you want to stay out near the ground, then the Tulip Inn or the Park Lane are within a stone’s throw. Still near the stadium, but a bit cheaper, is the Hotel Premiere Classe. Fans 3 In April 2018 it was reported that Lille players were forced to leave the field after being attacked by their fans following a 1-1 draw with Montpellier. Security failed as hundreds of fans invaded the pitch after the full-time whistle to confront the home team. Lille Ultras groups met with owner Gerard Lopez, who purchased the club in 2017, to agree on a way forward together; the subsequent pitch invasion suggests not all is well between fan and club. One factor is the heightened expectation after the 2011 title win and another is five managers in four years. Their main rain rivals are Lens – two big northern clubs, perhaps divided by class Lille (middle) and Lens (working). Geographically they are just a 30-minute drive apart. Average attendance peaked in the first season at the new stadium at an average of 40k. The following two seasons it fell to 38k then 36k. The highest attendance during that time was 48,960 in 2014 v PSG. From 2016-2018 the average attendance has hovered around 30, 000. Access 3 The stadium is approximately 6 km outside of Lille town centre in an area called Villeneuve d’ Ascq. If you are flying, then you need to travel to Belgium not France. Head for Brussels South Charleroi Airport, and then it’s just over 100 km west over the border by car. Whilst here though you should also head 50 km north on arrival at the airport and visit the site of the Battle of Waterloo. When travelling from the UK you may take the excellent Euro Tunnel which whisks you under the channel in just over 30 mins. From there it’s just over 100 km to Lille. Eurostar of course also calls at Lille and takes just 90 minutes. Keep a look out for cheap return tickets from London St Pancras which come up from time to time. Once in Lille, use the local transport system. The #18 bus towards Versailles will get you close. On the (driverless) metro, head for Cite Scientifique for the stadium or Les Pres for a shuttle bus service that will take you straight to the ground. Alternatively, you could get a taxi for around 20 Euros. If you need to park near the ground, then be careful. The car parks can end up quite full and some of the parking isn’t necessarily legal. This can lead to long and frustrating delays as you try to leave. The Stade Pierre Mauroy website suggests booking your parking in advance and describes the various parking options provided. You may also be able to find a side street easily enough and exit the area in good time. Tickets are simple enough to get ahold of. The surplus of tickets is generally available means you can buy them on the day from the ticket office or the club shop in the town centre. Buying in advance, prices range from 15-65 Euros and are available through the club website. Buying via the Lille website is straight forward and e-tickets will be in your email inbox within a minute after purchasing. Return on Investment 4 Take advantage of special ticket deals, which provide an excellent return on investment. The match day programme (Reservoir Dogues) and club newspaper (LOSC in the City) are also both free. Prices for food and beers are expensive in the centre of Lille as you’d expect, but overall the trip can be done relatively cheaply. Extras 3 Guided tours are available for individuals, lasting approximately one hour. Book ahead via the Villeneuve d’ Ascq tourism office. For a group tour, download the booking form on the Pierre Mauroy stadium website. A club toaster is a highlight when looking for eclectic gifts in the club shop. The shop is well stocked but the queue seems to take an age. Final Thoughts In its 6th year, the stadium is beginning to look a little worn on the outside, but overall it’s an impressive modern arena to watch a game. With the 2024 Olympic Games set to use the Pierre Mauroy as part of its football competition, it could be argued its best days lie ahead. Eden Hazard, a former player still very much in love with his old club, tweeted his support during the recent turbulent occurrences. Another iconic Lille son, Charles De Gaulle, the famous French general, would have been proud of the fight shown by the Lille side who ensured this first-rate stadium remained a Ligue 1 ground for one more year at least.

Photos by Chris Tuck, Stadium Journey Stadium Info FANFARE Score: 3.57 Stade de la Licorne 25, Rue du Chapitre Amiens 80000, France Amiens SC website Stade de la Licorne website Year Opened: 1999 Capacity: 12,097 Groundhopping in the Somme It took Amiens Sporting Club 116 years to reach the top flight of French football. They finally achieved their dream in 2017, finishing as runners-up in Ligue 2 (a 96th-minute winner in their final game confirmed promotion). Boss Christophe Pelissier went down in history and the move to their sparkling new stadium in 1999 was vindicated. Previously, a single Couple De France final appearance in 2001 had been their peak, a 5-4 defeat on penalties to Strasbourg was hard to take. It was RC Strasbourg again providing the opposition for our visit on a cold November evening. The Stade de la Licorne, 3k to the west of the city, is a striking structure, small in capacity but a giant in character. The transparent roof which peers inward over the pitch is an impressive and innovative feature, particularly imposing at night. The stadium, which opened in 1999, has a sponsorship naming rights deal with ‘Credit Agricole’ a network of French co-operatives. Fierce WW1 battles and German occupation in WW2 catapulted Amiens (capital of the Somme region) into the world’s psyche. Before that author Jules Verne lived and worked in Amiens and in latter times current French president Emmanuel Macron was born here. With civic pride dented by factory closures and public sector cuts, right on cue, their football team has risen to life. Editor's Note: Amien SC is currently in Ligue 2. Food & Beverage 3 Sustenance options in the immediate locality and around the perimeter of the stadium are limited. Eat and drink in town or inside the stadium. Once in the ground, there are temporary structures selling drinks and hot and cold snacks. Pay 1 Euro for a branded reusable cup and a beer costs 3 or 5 Euros (small or large). The ‘huts’ also sell soft drinks at 2.50 Euros and snacks including crisps and chocolate bars. The grandly titled ‘Les Arts de la Fete’ behind the south stand sells hot food including Frites for 3 Euros, Frites plus Saucisse, merguez ou piluet for 6 Euros, or baguettes. Atmosphere 4 Despite being open for 20 years (the inaugural match was a champions trophy match in July 1999 between Nantes and Bordeaux) the place still feels fresh and new. The current capacity of 12,097 could be developed to 20,000 in the future should it be needed. The highest attendance so far saw 12,737 squeezed in for a match v Olympique Marseilles. The stands are almost identical on three sides with a larger version including a second tier forming the main stand. The leg room is excellent, and all seats are comfortable with an element of cover from the curved roof but this would not necessarily be enough to stop a soaking. Two scoreboards, one at each end keep supporters up to date with club news. (Watch a brief clip of the inside of the ground here.) The views, too, are superb. The intimacy of the venue together with the bright white seats and curved glass backdrop ensures a real wow factor as you enter the arena. Neighbourhood 3 As with most out-of-town venues, there is little to see in the immediate surrounding area. Centrally, the old town is worth staying for, with the 800-year-old cathedral the centerpiece. This UNESCO 13th-century gothic monolith towers over the old town and inside it is simply magnificent. Starting slightly north of the cathedral there is the Quartier Saint-Leu, a fashionable area where the old textile mills were once based. This is an excellent area to eat, with a collection of restaurants nestled on the banks of the Somme River. Our recommendation though is in the middle of town, an English-style bar called Au Bureau. There’s a great menu and a seat upstairs provides some great views over the pedestrianised shopping area. A couple of streets away, the pub Le Charleston has sporting themes on the walls and serves blonde Leffe, a must when in northern Europe. After the game back near the station, ‘Le Towers’ the Irish bar has friendly staff and a good range of beers. Other central attractions include Maison De Jules Verne, the house where Verne lived, renovated (but with various parts of the interior preserved) now a museum, and the Belfry d’Amiens. Climb the tower and enjoy the views for just 4 Euros. Two memorials to the wars can be found along Rue de Noyon just opposite the station. Fans 3 Whilst the city does not have the feel of a footballing hotbed, the fans here love Les Licornes (The Unicorns). Recent average attendances include 2017/18 (9,521), 2018/19 (11,043), and 2019/20 (currently 12,134). Rivals include Lens, Lille, and Strasbourg. No printed programme or team sheet for fans is a disappointment, whilst not a surprise in mainline Europe it’s a missed opportunity to connect with fans and visitors. The most vociferous fans are based at the north end of the ground. The north and south stand behind each goal and also have special sections for diehard fans with flags and scarves etc. Away fans are in the corner of the south stand and enjoyed themselves on our visit as Strasbourg ran out 4-0 winners. Access 3 Amiens is situated in the industrial north of France in the Hauts-de-France department, a two-hour drive from Paris. Arriving on the Eurotunnel into Calais it’s just a 90-minute drive if you are happy to pay 11 Euros each way on tolls. From Paris or Calais it’s the A16 that will get you to the city. There is a large car park at the stadium. The main train station is Gare de Amiens where you can take an ER service to Paris Gare du Nord in just over an hour or it’s just 80 minutes from Lille. Alternatively, the Gare de Saint Roche which is closer to the stadium has TER (a regional brand on SCNCF) services to Albert, Abbeville, and Calais. The nearest airports are Paris Beauvais Airport (60 km) & Roissy Airport (160 km). Once in the centre of Amiens, it’s a long walk, taxi, or bus out to the ground. Take the bus (N4 or 16) from Rue au Lin, opposite the Belfry, just up the road from Le Charleston. The bus takes around 15 minutes to the Hippodrome next to the stadium. Match tickets can be purchased easily through the club website. Book early however as most Ligue 1 games are close to sellouts each match day. Reductions were available on our visit. Category 1 – 6 tickets normally 17.50-32.50 reduced to 10 Euros to 17 Euros. Return on Investment 4 Visiting from the UK, Eurotunnel single tickets can be purchased for as little as £30 each way. Then, petrol money, hotel, beers, and reduced-price match tickets mean the visit can be done on a tight budget. Extras 4 The clubs’ social media is excellent with the Twitter account @AmiensSC in particular very good. A treasure hunt in the city centre organised a few days before the game is just one example of some innovative work. Two fan accounts on Twitter @AmiensSCUnited and @Amienois1901 are also informative and helpful and worth a follow before you visit. There is a club shop in the city centre selling all the usual merchandise. Replica shirts are quite expensive as is normally the case, a scarf at 15 Euros is perhaps a more affordable souvenir. Amiens previous home Stade Moulonguet in the south of the city has not been demolished and can still be visited. It is now the home of their second team (Amiens SC 2) who play in the National 3 league. Final Thoughts If you love your history and your eclectic football stadia, then put this one on your groundhopping list. The city of Amiens is small enough to explore in a day and if you visit whilst the Christmas market is on, the old town feels almost magical. The Somme region is rich in wartime history and so it’s a good place to base yourself if you want to take in the battlefields and monuments in the area. The stadium design has to be seen, it has the feel of some Middle Eastern grounds and our recommendation is to visit for a night game. By day it looks fairly ordinary, like an old shopping centre but when the lights come on, like the football club itself, this fine stadium comes to life.

Photos by Marc Viquez, Stadium Journey Stadium Info FANFARE Score: 3.71 Grand Park Events Center 19000 Grand Park Blvd Westfield, IN 46074 Indy Eleven website Grand Park Events Center website Year Opened: 2014 Capacity: 2,000 Indy XI Women Take the Game Indoors Indy Eleven of the USL Championship purchased a club in the USL W League to kick off its inaugural season of 2022. The 44-team league was created to provide opportunities for girls and women to play, coach, and work in soccer. The Eleven play in the Great Lakes Division and call the Grand Parks Events Center home for its matches. The building is the centerpiece of the Grand Park Sports Complex, which features 26 baseball and softball diamonds and 31 multipurpose fields for soccer, football, and lacrosse spread out over 400-acres 20 miles north of downtown Indianapolis. The Events Center features 3-full-size synthetic fields, 4-locker rooms, office space, a restaurant, and a sports pub. It is the second attempt of the USL to establish a women’s league. The original W-League operated from 1995-to 2015. None of the teams from the original loop have returned, with many operated by USL Championship clubs. Food & Beverage 4 There is plenty of food to choose from at the venue that includes a full-service restaurant and pub with food and drink, along with a concession stand with snack items for the younger fans. The pub has a full-service menu that includes starters (nachos, fried pickles, chicken wings, loaded tots, and cheese curds), entrees (burgers, tenderloin, chicken sandwiches, buffalo chicken wrap), pizza, and salads. The prices range as low as $9 for a starter, $12-14 for a sandwich, and 22-25 for a 16-inch pizza. There is an impressive selection of beer that costs $8 a pint and includes varieties from Three Floyd’s, Sun King, Upland, along with Yuengling Lager, Blue Moon, and Stella Artois. Canned beer is available for $6-$8 from Budweiser, Coors, Guinness, Rhinegiest, Modelo, and Sun King. Coors Seltzer, White Claw, and Hard Cider are also available for purchase at the game. The concession stand is downstairs and features nachos, hot dogs, pretzels, candy, pop, hot chocolate, and coffee. The price of a hot dog is $4, a 32-ounce Pepsi product is also $4, and combos can be made with a hot dog, bag of chips, and soda for $8. A few reminders when ordering from the pub, the crowds get long during half-time, and it might be better to place a food order before or after this time. It is fun to have a drink with a few fans during this time, but not when you are hungry. Also, the building only accepts credit cards at this time. It may change in the future, but you have been warned. Atmosphere 4 The game-day atmosphere is electric during a soccer match. Fans pack in both sides of the grandstand and watch from above the action on the pitch. The same can be said for fans in the pub who have a great window view of the game from their seats. The Brickyard Battalion occupies one end of the venue and generates a similar frenzy pace as they do at Carroll Stadium downtown for men’s games. Fans have to walk upstairs to purchase a ticket and have an open view of the pitch from both sides, along with a possible youth game taking place on one of the two adjacent fields. A merchandise booth is installed with caps, scarves, and t-shirts, and a match poster is available for free to take home to hang on your wall. The club’s official mascot, Victorio, can also be found greeting fans young and old. Neighborhood 3 Grand Park is 20 miles northwest of downtown Indianapolis in the suburb of Westfield, a sprawling community in recent years. Grand Park is near a collection of chain restaurants, hotels, and local restaurants and establishments. If you are with the family, a few national and regional chains: McDonald’s, Dairy Queen, Culver’s, Portillo’s Hot Dogs, Chick-fil-A, and Chipotle. There are also local restaurants: Grindstone on the Monon, I Heart Mac & Cheese, Union Jack Pub (fantastic deep-dish pizza), Los Agaves, Ben’s BBQ, and Wolfies Grill. Another fun spot for the family is Urban Vines. The winery/brewery serves up wine slushies, bottled wine, beer, and pizza, along with a giant grass area with benches, fire pits, and a kids’ play area – it’s family-friendly. If you are without the kids, 1205 Distillery North often has live music along with a couple of other breweries – Field and Grand Junction. Fans 4 The inaugural match was sold-out for the first game of the club. A frenzied crowd took to the indoors at the Event Center and welcomed the ladies to the Indianapolis area. The Brickyard Battalion was seated at the far end of the grandstand and made their presence known with drums, chants, flag-waving, and feet stomping on the aluminum bleachers. The rest of the stands were filled with fans cheering on the side throughout the match. Access 3 There is plenty of signage to the complex but not any reference to the Indy XI club. The team also had to remind people that the venue was indoor at the Event Center (it could probably use a better name or a corporate sponsorship for easier identification), but there is a vast parking lot that is free of charge and directions inside to lead fans upstairs to the seating bowl. I would say that someone could access the game free of charge since there seemed to be a few entrances that were not checking tickets Return on Investment 4 A ticket is $8, the same for a pint of beer at the pub, merchandise is $25-$30 for a shirt or cap, and the parking is free. One could grab something to eat in the pub, watch the game from there, and perhaps make your way to the stands for the second half. The area is perfect for families with hotels and retail chains nearby to satisfy their cravings. Extras 3 A point for the pub that is packed during half-time with fans exchanging stories over a pint of beer and mingling with players from the men’s side. A second point is for the BYB, who show their support for the ladies and bring a welcome presence to the match. A third point is for the set up of the game-day experience by the staff. It is run on a professional level with members available for questions when applicable. Final Thoughts It is not my first time watching a sporting event for Stadium Journey at the Events Center, the Indy AlleyCats of the AUDL also call it home, but I was impressed with what I witnessed. I don’t think every game will be a sell-out, but even half the audience would be a welcome presence. It is also an ideal spot for the folks in the northern suburbs of Indianapolis to have a sports option for the family. I would prefer the game outdoors at a soccer-specific venue, and perhaps that day will come, but they are off to a great start.

Photos by Chris Green, Stadium Journey Stadium Info FANFARE Score: 4.43 Providence Park 1844 SW Morrison Portland, OR 97220 Portland Thorns Providence Park Year Opened: 1926 Capacity: 25,218 Onward In Rose City Portland is a soccer city. Without a doubt, the surge in the sport’s popularity in America in the 2010s can partly be attributed to the city and its supporters. The years of success have cultivated a culture in Portland that loves the sport and continues to grow its fan base as the years go on. Part of this success comes in the form of the Portland Thorns. While women’s professional soccer has struggled outside of the USA National Team at times, the Thorns have thrived. The team has two championships, play in the home of the Timbers, pack the stands every night, and now hold the NWSL single-game attendance record, with over 21,000 fans watching women play professional soccer at one time. Food & Beverage 4 Food and drinks at Providence Park are exceptional, but the prices tend to be on the higher end for sports stadiums. There is a wide variety of options, however, something one would expect a sports stadium in Portland to have. Chicken tinga tacos ($10), hot dogs ($6.75), nachos ($7.75), chicken tenders ($14), ice cream ($5), tater tots ($6), BBQ brisket sandwiches ($16), and many more options greet fans in the concourses of Providence Park. Drinks include soda ($6.50), water ($5.25), coffee ($4-$6), beer ($9.50-$12), wine ($13), kombucha ($11.50), and more. Atmosphere 5 During Portland Thorns games, the stadium itself remains almost unchanged from its MLS layout. The grandstands are all open, save for a few upper deck sections covered by small sponsor tarps, but the remainder of the seats, suites, and stands are packed full of fans night in and night out. Every concessions stand and team store booth that is open during a Portland Timbers game is also open during Thorns matches. Fans cheer with every goal, and smoke fills the end zone whenever they score. The facilities are clean, plentiful, and you never have to wait longer than needed. Indeed, for the uninitiated it would be hard to distinguish a Timbers game from a Thorns game save for the team colors and crowd size – the noise is the same, and the experience is almost mirrored to what you see for the men’s squad. This is easily one of the top stadiums in women’s professional soccer in America. Recently, the newly expanded seating on the east side of the stadium expanded the options for fans with three levels of seating. Neighborhood 5 Providence Park is located right in the middle of shopping, dining, and everything Portland. Like the majority of the city, the stadium is within walking distance to anything you want. Situated in the historic Alphabet District, this soccer stadium is perfect for those who also like to enjoy the city in which it is located. Just blocks away from the stadium are Park Lake Suites & Inn and Hotel deLuxe. Blue Star Donuts, Von Ebert Brewing, Multnomah Whiskey Library, TILT, and countless more restaurants are also nearby to satisfy every palate possible. If you are looking for something to do, Portland has it. You are only a few hours away from Mt. Hood and the beautiful national park scenery, as well as the Columbia River Gorge. You are also not far from the International Rose Test Garden and the Pittock Mansion. Fans 5 Anytime a team holds its respective league’s single-game attendance record, you know the fans are loyal. The Thorn faithful turn out in droves every single game; rain or shine, cold or hot, the stadium is sure to be packed. The north end zone is where the fan zone is located. Here, the Rose City Riveters sing, chant, and yell the entire game. Whenever a Portland goal is scored the Riveters erupt, with red smoke filling the air. The rest of the fans in the stadium are also as passionate about the Thorns as possible. Each fan seems to have a favorite player, and they know the team better than anyone else. The stadium is also filled with the youngest fans, as families find Thorns games perfect for bringing the kids for a night out in Oregon. Access 3 The biggest downfall at Providence Park is the lack of on-site parking. The venue does not feature a parking garage or any official parking lots, as it is located literally right in the middle of a commercial and residential neighborhood. However, various parking lots in the area offer their spaces up to fans attending games. The big push here in Portland is the use of public transportation – several bus lines take you right to the stadium’s neighborhood. In addition, many fans choose to make a night of their game visit, spending the afternoon and evening shopping and eating at local restaurants before walking to the game. Getting to the stadium is easy, as signs help direct you to the facility when you exit off I-405. Providence Park itself is located mere blocks from the highway, just off W. Burnside Street. Return on Investment 5 Tickets to Portland Thorns games start as low as just $10 and can be purchased for under $30 right next to the pitch. This is extremely low for professional sports, let alone professional soccer, and means you can take the whole family to the game for less than $50 on a regular night. Parking is also generally affordable nearby, with the option of using public transportation taking even more off the top of your game day costs. Extras 4 The Thorns have a ceremony after games, where young fans are chosen to present a rose to each goal scorer on the field. The stadium also has banners for both the Portland Thorns and Timbers hanging in the rafters, helping to honor the team’s history. Some games also feature post-game autograph sessions on the field, offering fans the chance to get up close and meet some of their sports heroes. In addition, the stadium features a fan tailgating area in one of the parking lots nearby, which serves as the perfect place for fans to gather during pre-game and hang out before heading into Providence Park. Final Thoughts Though one may forget about women’s professional soccer when thinking about Portland, it is indeed part of the very sporting fabric of the city. The Portland Thorns squad is a team that has a history of success, is one of the most popular sports franchises in this metropolitan center, and has a bright future. Indeed, going to a Portland Thorns game seems wholly required when visiting the Rose City. If watching what in other cities may seem an obscure sport, in a stadium that fully embraces and celebrates it, isn’t part of what keeps Portland weird, and in the best of ways, then one cannot possibly imagine what else would.

Photos by Eric Moreno, Stadium Journey Stadium Info FANFARE Score: 2.43 Shell Energy Stadium 2200 Texas Ave Houston, TX 77002 Houston Dash website Shell Energy Stadium Year Opened: 2012 Capacity: 22,039 State-of-the-Art Home in Space City Note: The stadium name changed from BBVA Compass Stadium to Shell Energy Stadium in Jan, 2023. In 2013 the Houston Dynamo welcomed the National Women’s Soccer League (NWSL) and its newest franchise, the Houston Dash, to BBVA Compass Stadium. The team ushered in a new era of professional sports not just in Space City, but in the State of Texas. The Dash began playing the following season and have steadily built a strong and passionate fan base ever since. With its vast and diverse population, Houston has proven to be the perfect breeding ground for the game of soccer. While the women’s game lags a little behind, judging by the success the Dash have had in attracting fans it is only a matter of time before women’s soccer here takes that next step in popularity; the fact that they will be able to accomplish it from the friendly confines of the state-of-the-art BBVA Compass Stadium is just icing on the metaphorical cake. Food & Beverage 2 When the Dash play at BBVA Compass Stadium, one of the first things you’ll notice is that many of the facilities normally open during Dynamo games are not available; this is especially noticeable in terms of concessions. Many of the food and beverage kiosks are closed during Dash games, which limits you in terms of selection. What there is though should be enough to satisfy the hunger of anyone who attends; all the open concession stands are located on the main concourse level. If you’re looking for traditional stadium fare, right off the bat you can hit up Diesel’s Corner where hot dogs ($3), nachos ($4), popcorn, and candy are all on the menu. Or, there is also a Papa John’s Pizza kiosk that serves pizza by the slice. Another main draw in terms of concessions is the Heineken Red Star bar at the north end of the stadium; this is a full-service bar that, as can be imagined, is quite popular throughout matches. Atmosphere 2 You cannot help but notice that many of the amenities, including the second deck of the stadium, are closed during Dash games. This unfortunately hurts the overall atmosphere of games, as even a large crowd tends to feel overwhelmed by the emptiness of the stadium. That being said, the Dash do a good job filling the lower section and encouraging fans to partake in all of the tropes and trappings of the sport of soccer. You’ll see countless orange soccer scarves, there will be chanting throughout the match, and there is a palpable buzz emanating from the end zone where the fan clubs sit. Neighborhood 4 BBVA Compass Stadium is located in the middle of downtown Houston, within eyesight/walking distance of Minute Maid Park, so if you plan your visit on the right weekend you might be able to catch an Astros game as well. This is also a really vibrant area of the city, and is quite frankly a great place to spend time before and after Dash games. As an example, directly catty corner to the main entrance of BBVA Compass Stadium is one of the most popular barbecue restaurants in the city, Texas Bar-B-Que House. This place fills up fast on game nights, so you might have to wait to get your brisket or your ribs. Also, directly behind the stadium there are a couple of spots that are just flat out cool, for lack of a better word. The Truck Yard is an awesome outdoor food park, complete with live music, a beer garden, and even a Ferris wheel – it has to be seen to be believed. For those of the 21 and over crowd, make sure you stop by 8th Wonder Brewery. With a wide selection of award-winning craft beers and a healthy dose of Houston-centric nostalgia (the brewery is named for the fabled Astrodome), this is a great spot to hang out before or after Dash games. Fans 2 The Dash currently average a shade over 3,800 fans per game this season, which has them ranked near the bottom of the NWSL in terms of attendance. However, that number is still pretty impressive when stacked against other minor league sports, and the fans that do come out to Dash games come out fully loaded! There is orange everywhere in the stands and in the fan club section, and there is also a drum corps that beats out tunes the entire game. Personally, I think one of the best reasons to be hopeful about the future success of the team is the sheer volume of young fans in the stands. Young boys and girls attend Dash games in abundance, and there is no better way to grow a fan base and a sport than to get fans interested while they’re young; I believe the Dash get this. Access 3 BBVA Compass Stadium is located right in the heart of Houston’s downtown. Because of this, it is both extremely easy and at times highly frustrating to get to Dash games. Houston traffic is infamous; you will encounter bumper-to-bumper stoppage on the city’s freeways pretty much 24 hours a day. The stadium is located almost directly off Highway 69, and there is ample parking all around the stadium. The cost for said parking ranges anywhere from $5 to $25, depending on how far you want to walk. But for those who want to skip the traffic, METRORail Houston has a stop right in front of BBVA Compass Stadium. Return on Investment 3 Individual tickets for Houston Dash games are a real bargain at just $15 per person. There are also BOGO offers for select games, and kids get in free games during the month of August. Again, I think this is a great way to build a fan base, especially for the young ones. Concessions prices are pretty much on average with similar sports at this level. You won’t break the bank trying to take the family to Dash games, especially if you don’t mind heading toward the $5 parking. In addition, the NWSL features some of the top players in the sport, and they all come through Houston at one time or another. Extras 1 There isn’t much offered up in the way of extras during Dash games – aside from the fan clubs, which are fun to watch, the Dash don’t do much else. They do share the same mascot with the Dynamo, however; a human-sized fox named Diesel who patrols the stands during Dash games and makes for a great photo opp for kids. Final Thoughts If you’ve ever gotten caught up watching the Women’s World Cup since its inaugural year in 1991, attending a Dash game is something you should experience. A vast majority of the top stars from the U.S. Women’s National Team have found a spot on one of the rosters of the NWSL, which means they play at least once a season in Houston. For fans of the game, attending a matchup at BBVA Compass Stadium should be something you make a point of experiencing at least once.

Photos by Matt Finnigan, Stadium Journey Stadium Info FANFARE Score: 3.57 McMahon Stadium 1817 Crowchild Trail NW Calgary, AB T2M 4R6 Canada Calgary Stampeders website McMahon Stadium website Year Opened: 1960 Capacity: 35,650 Much More Than Meets the Eye Calgary, the most populous city in the Canadian province of Alberta, has long been known as “Cowtown.” This nickname is a nod to Calgary’s agricultural importance to Canada and the city’s role as host of one of the world’s largest rodeos, the Calgary Stampede. However, the moniker overlooks many of the city’s significant assets: culture, history, and beauty. Calgary sits at the confluence of the Bow and the Elbow Rivers, with several national parks, such as Banff and Jasper, in the Canadian Rockies within an easy drive west on the Trans-Canada Highway. Calgary is also a football town. The Calgary Stampeders, known to fans as the “Stamps,” boast a rich history in the Canadian Football League and are the CFL’s third-oldest team, having begun play in 1945. The Stamps have brought home eight Grey Cup CFL titles and have appeared in 17 Grey Cup championship games. The team’s home since 1960 is McMahon Stadium on the campus of the University of Calgary, where opening and closing ceremonies were held during the 1988 Winter Olympics. McMahon Stadium is both the CFL’s third-oldest and the third-largest stadium, making it a great place to appreciate the Stampeders’ history while enjoying modern updates. Canadian football may seem like a curiosity to those accustomed to American football but it’s more than that. The CFL field is larger than its American counterpart, measuring 110 yards long by 65 yards wide, with 20-yard goal areas (end zones), with the goalposts positioned almost on the goal line. Twelve players take the field in the CFL – one more than in American football – and CFL rules permit only three downs per offensive possession, meaning that teams rely more on passing than rushing. In the CFL, receivers and backs can be moving forward when the ball is snapped. There are other rules that affect play but the upshot is that CFL is an entertaining brand of football supported by passionate fans. Food & Beverage 3 The variety of food and beverage options at McMahon meets expectations. Fans can easily find hot dogs (C$5.75), pizza slices (C$6.25), cheeseburgers (C$8.50), nachos (C$9.50), fries (C$4.50), and chicken tenders with fries (C$8.75). The Baron Haus, under sections J and K on the stadium’s west side, is a carnivore’s paradise. A hand-carved “baron” of beef (i.e., a sandwich) sells for C$11.50 and a pulled pork parfait – yes, this is a real thing – is available here for $C12. Despite its name, the “parfait” consists of smoked pork, redskin mashed potatoes, corn, and house-made BBQ sauce. The Baron Haus also has a baked potato (the “Spud-inator”) with a variety of toppings for C$7.50. An adobo chicken burrito and a Taco in a Bag sell for $C10 and $C8.75, respectively, at the End Zone stand, under the west grandstand. Thirsty fans will also find the basics. Molson and Coors sell for $C8.75 for a 12-ounce can. Strongbow Cider, Snapple Spiked Vodka, and Vizzy and Truly hard seltzers all sell for $C10.75 per 16-ounce can. Pepsi products sell for $C5.25 per 16-ounce plastic bottle. Importantly during late-season games, coffee and hot chocolate sell for C$2.75. Well-staffed concession stands abound under McMahon’s grandstands so any lines that form move very quickly. Atmosphere 4 The Stamps have created an enjoyable experience at McMahon Stadium, with entertainment beyond the on-field play. The Stamps also celebrate touchdowns with a ride from “Quick Six,” a white horse ridden by Chelsea Drake. This is a nice touch that honors Calgary’s renowned rodeo tradition and helps fans celebrate the Stamps’ success. Additionally, the COVID-19 pandemic required teams to minimize person-to-person contact so a local automobile dealer provided a remote controlled truck to deliver the game ball to officials at the start of each game. The team retired the truck at the end of the 2021 regular season, with a tongue-in-cheek farewell video set to Sarah McLachlan’s “I Will Remember You.” Another favorite in-game promotion is the World’s Fastest Cow race. The Stamps have retained the services of a sprinter, dressed as a cow, who takes on a local celebrity or former player during an early time-out. The cow’s opponent receives a 10-yard head start as the two race toward the end zone at the far end of the field. COVID-19 sidelined (pun intended) the World’s Fastest Cow during the 2020 season, but he made a triumphant, bovine return in 2021. The stadium has a first-class sound system and a visually appealing scoreboard beyond the south end zone that tracks game statistics in real time. Neighbourhood 4 McMahon Stadium sits adjacent to the University of Calgary’s campus, a short drive from downtown Calgary. The neighbourhood around the stadium has plenty of options for pre- and post-game entertainment but with downtown just a 15-minute drive or light rail trip away, the entire city provides a legion of places to eat, drink, and celebrate the Stamps. The stadium’s immediate vicinity does not offer much in the way of nightlife but there are a couple of restaurants and a few hotels. Across Crowchild Trail NW on McMahon’s east side, Big T’s BBQ and Smokehouse offers burgers and barbecue within direct view of the stadium, adjacent to the pedestrian bridge connecting the light rail station with the stadium. Just north on Crowchild Trail NW, Nick’s serves steaks, pizza, and a sports bar. Several hotels (Aloft, Hampton Inn, Ramada Limited, and Comfort Suites) also sit just east of McMahon, along Banff Trail NW. The CTrain, Calgary’s light rail system, connects McMahon Stadium with neighborhoods throughout the city. Many fans take the CTrain to the Banff Trail station, located just east of McMahon, to Stamps’ home games. A pedestrian bridge connects the station and the stadium without having to navigate traffic on Crowchild Trail NE. Calgary has several neighborhoods worth exploring. The 17th Avenue Retail & Entertainment District has restaurants of all types. The Big Cheese Poutinerie serves poutine, which some consider being Canada’s national dish and is most certainly a delicious type of Quebecois comfort food: French fries, smothered in brown gravy and cheese curds. Alternatively, Alumni Sandwiches has a hot chicken sandwich that rivals Nashville’s. Fans 3 The Stamps have a loyal and vocal following, with the team’s 2021 average home, regular-season attendance (23,354) outpacing the league average (19,058) by almost 4,300 fans. Although McMahon Stadium does not routinely sell out, the fans who do attend are loud and engaged. Even to a CFL neophyte and even if the Stamps are playing a team such as Winnipeg, for instance, fans loudly deride their team’s provincial rivals, the Edmonton Elks, and their Prairie Province rival, the Saskatchewan Roughriders throughout games at McMahon. Access 4 McMahon Stadium is a very easy place to experience a game. The Stamps do not have much parking available next to the stadium but the surrounding area handles the volume of traffic for a home game very well, with relatively inexpensive parking within a short walk. The University of Calgary also has parking available for those willing to make a longer walk. But Calgary’s mass transit system (especially the CTrain) is an easy, quick option for getting to a game. Once inside, grandstands are positioned on the stadium’s east and west sides. Fans can easily walk from one side to the other after entering; there’s plenty of room on the concourses underneath each grandstand for fans to move without encountering a lot of foot traffic. The stadium has more than enough concession stands and restrooms, which beyond their intended uses provide McMahon’s only heated sanctuaries during a cold game. The stadium’s corners do have metal bleachers, but the large majority of seats are plastic chairbacks. One important note: a steep climb awaits those sitting in higher rows (i.e., beginning at approximately row 44). That ascent provides great views of the field and the city beyond the stadium, especially sitting atop the west grandstand. But the slope will challenge even the most physically fit of Stamps fans (and the least physically fit of stadium reviewers). Return on Investment 4 A Stamps game at McMahon Stadium is a good value. Reserved seats start at C$37 apiece for regular-season home games and start at C$47 each for games against rivals Edmonton and Saskatchewan. Concession stand prices are fairly standard for a sporting event, while parking and mass transit mean that fans do not have to empty their kids’ college funds to attend. Extras 3 “Pick Six” earns McMahon Stadium an extra point, not only because it provides a great touchdown celebration but also because it’s a family affair. Although Chelsea Drake has assumed the reins as Pick Six’s primary rider, her mom, Karyn, served that role from 2003 to 2016 and is still a backup rider. McMahon receives a second point for its Olympic history. The stadium still has the cauldron from the 1988 winter games in the northeast corner. A final point goes to the effort that the Stamps’ front office has made to create an enjoyable experience at McMahon. The in-game promotions are clever and original. Final Thoughts McMahon Stadium fits seamlessly into the fabric of Calgary, with downtown and the university short distances away. The on-field play is enjoyable to watch and the fans deliver enthusiastic responses at all the right moments. For someone wanting to experience CFL play in person for the first time, a Stamps game is a great way to do it. And Calgary itself is a city that does not get nearly enough credit for its beauty and history. Follow Matt Finnigan’s stadium journeys on Twitter @mattfinniganco

Photos by Aaron S. Terry, Stadium Journey Stadium Info FANFARE Score: 4.57 Footprint Center 201 E Jefferson St Phoenix, AZ 85004 Arizona Rattlers website Footprint Center website Year Opened: 1992 Capacity: 18,422 Welcome to the Snake Pit The Arizona Rattlers have been playing indoor football for over 30 years, and have won 6 championships in that time, an astonishing 20% hit rate, including a threepeat from 2012-2014. They were members of the Arena Football League from 1992-2016 before joining the Indoor Football League for the 2017 campaign. The team plays their home games at Footprint Center, also home to the Phoenix Suns of the NBA. Formerly known as Talking Stick Resort Arena, among other names, the facility holds just over 17,000 fans and was most recently renovated in 2020. The Arizona Rattlers pull out all the stops for indoor football in Phoenix – pyrotechnics when the team comes onto the field, a great crowd, a superb facility, and all the other bells and whistles you could ask for. Food & Beverage 4 Footprint Center has pretty much any food and beverage option you could ask for, including several large bar areas where you can sit and enjoy a drink within sight of the action on the field. The only downside is that the prices are high, as you may expect from an NBA arena (think $10 for a brat without fries, or $20 for a draft beer). Main dishes include hot dogs, brats, burgers, chicken tenders, tacos, tamales, nachos (basic, chicken tinga, or al pastor), pizza, catfish or veggie po boys, Caesar salads, cauliflower with hot sauce and blue cheese (presumably for vegetarians and vegans), chicken sandwiches (including Nashville hot), hibachi bowls, poke bowls, fried rice, and even sushi rolls – yes, sushi rolls. Side and snack items include cheesy garlic bread, fries, popcorn, cotton candy, ice cream, and packaged candy, as well as a few items from Wetzel’s Pretzels, which offers probably the best value at Footprint Center; a large serving of pretzel bites for around $8 (but add $2.50 per cup of dipping sauce to go with it). Drink selections are just as varied, including soda, bottled water, regular lemonade, strawberry lemonade, draft or canned beer, hard seltzer, cocktails, and wine. There are even a couple of mini convenience stores with a huge selection of different beers and sodas (as well as a few packaged snacks), which are almost certain to have what you are looking for – if you are looking for a taste of Arizona, be sure to stop by these convenience stores to pick up prickly pear cactus flavored gummi bears or popcorn. Atmosphere 5 The atmosphere for Arizona Rattlers football couldn’t be better – the action starts when the team takes the field, with sparks and spurts of flame flying out of cones as the players make their entrances. There is also a stellar dance team and a great mascot named Stryker, who is all over the place taking pictures with fans in the stands, or the concourse, and he also shows up on the field with the dance team, pumping up the crowd – Stryker has a great look with the fangs and mottled pattern on his neck, perfectly reminiscent of the rattlesnake he represents. The arena is not surprisingly called the Snake Pit, and the fans are loud and engaged the whole time, helped out immensely by a super-energetic P. A. announcer, constantly demanding they Make…Some…Noise! There are also plenty of activities to keep the crowd involved, such as great music and events like the Fist Pump Cam, where fans try to get themselves shown on the video board by doing the most energetic fist pumps. They also have a fundraiser where fans can buy miniature footballs, and try to throw them into baskets on the field for the chance to win a prize (held at the end of the third quarter). Neighborhood 5 With its location right downtown (next to Chase Field in fact, home of the Arizona Diamondbacks), Footprint Center has plenty of restaurants and entertainment options within walking distance – you may be able to pair a baseball game with an indoor football game if you time it correctly, although the Arizona Cardinals of course don’t play until the fall, so the two football seasons do not overlap. Sky Harbor International Airport is not far from downtown – this airport is one of the biggest in the country, with destinations from all over. One of the nice features about it (which I think is relatively new) is that the sky train takes fans to locations outside the airport, including the rental car center, making it a lot easier to get to and from your flight. Fans 4 As mentioned before, the fans at the Arizona Rattlers game are really loud and energetic and seem to be into the game. There is plenty of team gear being worn, and it is also sold on-site in case you want to pick something up. Unlike the prices at the concession stands, the prices for team gear are quite reasonable – the official football has a special logo marking the Rattler 30 plus years of dominance in the sport, so that would be a great souvenir to pick up ($40) – they also have a smaller version you can get for $15. Access 4 Not sure how long it will continue, but there is a lot of construction going on in and around Phoenix at present – for example, parts of I-10 and I-17 are closed for blasting. The location downtown also adds additional headaches in terms of traffic, although the good news is that indoor football is less well attended than basketball games, so it is a little easier to manage than visiting for a Suns game. Also, indoor football games generally happen on the weekend, and pretty much any city has easier traffic and parking on the weekends than on weekdays, since weekends don’t have all the commuters. Even if you arrive close to kickoff, you can still park for $10 in a small lot right next to Chase Field, which is basically across the street from Footprint Center – a lot of fans also park for free on the side streets near the venue, which don’t have any parking fees at night and during the weekend, when the Rattlers games are likely to be happening. Once you get inside Footprint Center itself it is very easy to move around, and there are no lines to speak of at most of the concession stands, given how many choices you have for food and beverages. There are also plenty of bathrooms and as I mentioned, plenty of bar areas as well. There are also 2 different team stores – a small one on the concourse plus the main one, which is slightly hidden in a corner near the main entrance (you could easily miss it if you aren’t paying attention). Return on Investment 5 A ticket to an Arizona Rattlers game is most definitely worth the money – tickets start at around $30, and for that price, you get a phenomenal, fun, exciting experience. Parking is also reasonable, especially if you can park for free within walking distance. The only possible downside in terms of ROI is the cost of concessions, but there are enough options that if you plan carefully, you could easily see a game for under $50 per person. Extras 5 I already mentioned the great mascot and dance team, the P. A. announcer, and all the different bar areas, but there are also great seating areas dotted around on both the upper and lower levels, where you can sit and drink or eat your food, instead of bumping elbows while trying to eat in your seat. You can even visit part of the upper level (only some of it is designated for suite patrons only, and even that is not monitored very closely). But the Rattlers have also won all those championships, so you are guaranteed to see a great product on the field as well. Final Thoughts If there is any way you can make it out to Phoenix, I recommend visiting Footprint Center for an Arizona Rattlers game – if you have never seen indoor football before this would be a great way to start, and if you have watched the sport before, this is probably one of the best experiences for it that I have ever had.

Harford Community College, in Bel Air, MD hosted the 2023 NJCAA Men's Lacrosse National Championship, May 13-14 at Harford Stadium inside of Harford’s Sports Complex. The past two national championships have been held in Garden City, NY, home of Nassau Community College. The Saturday games saw the host Harford Fighting Owls defeat the CCBC Essex Knights by a score of 11-6, as well as the defending champion Nassau Lions winning over the Onondaga Lazers 10-8. The Sunday final was a match-up of heavy hitters, featuring the top two teams in the country. Harford secured its 1st NJCAA Men's Lacrosse Championship with a 13-8 victory. The Fighting Owls were able to complete an undefeated season with the win on their home turf. Harford had handed Nassau their only loss of the regular season and the last time before that they met in a tournament game was in the 2022 Championship game, which was a 12-11 double-overtime thriller that landed in Nassau's favor. Sophomore Attacker Dylan Tomarchio was named the Steve Caravana Offensive Player of the Tournament. Freshman Goalie Alex Epple was named the Defensive Player of the Tournament. Stadium Journey likes to remind readers that even smaller sports and/or smaller conferences offer great options for sports fans to enjoy.