The Men of Troy-Part 2

Official Review by Drew Cieszynski, Stadium Journey Regional Correspondent

There are few programs in college football that can draw the ire of opposing fans nationwide. Not just fans from within the conference, but also from fans that rarely see Pac 12 Conference football. Winning will do that for a program.

The University of Southern California Trojans have had a track record of unprecedented success and as a result, leave many of the competitors in awe. Annually, every team yearns to play in the Rose Bowl. USC has played in 33 and won 24, with the next most appearances by a school being "only" 20. Pardon them if they dislike losing, after all they've only had three losing seasons since 1961. The success of their program translates into the professional level as well, as the school has produced more first round NFL draft picks than anyone.

The school first fielded football team back in 1888, and were even referred to as the "Wesleyans" and the "Methodists" for periods of time. In 1912, the nickname of "Trojans" was adopted and has been embraced ever since.

The Coliseum was opened in 1923 at a construction cost of approximately $954,873, and since then, the Trojans have called The Los Angeles Memorial Coliseum their home. Conversely, the Trojan basketball team plays at the modern Galen Center, a venue that has been open less than 10 years.

The stadium has been affectionately nicknamed "The Grand Old Lady" due to its prestige and age. The stadium has recently been named one of the 40 best venues to experience college football by the Sporting News. With a capacity of over 93,000, there's ample opportunity for any fan to take in a game at this historic venue.

Due to its age, the stadium has undergone many renovations throughout the years. In 1993, the stadium was given a $15 million renovation, but in 1994 the area experienced an earthquake that would cause damages that would require an additional $93 million in repairs. 1995 marked the trifecta of consecutive years with substantial investment into the stadium as a new press-box was constructed.

Most recently, for the 2011 season, a new scoreboard was installed on the west end of the stadium. It definitely cannot be missed once setting foot inside the stadium, and can even be seen clearly from outside of the east end of the stadium. The height is 40 feet and the length is 150 feet long. Its resolution of 792 pixels high definitely stands out as the modern amenity of the stadium.

There are a few things that you must take part in prior to entering the stadium. First, and most importantly, you must visit the iconic statue of Tommy Trojan near the bookstore. Built in 1930, this statue takes its place in thousands of photographs on gameday.

Bask in some USC history during your stop at Heritage Hall, which is located at the center of campus. This 3 story building is home to the many honors that the university and athletes have received. You'll find photos and banners of NCAA championships, Heisman trophies, a bust of John Wayne, as well as plaques of many other honors.

As you walk down Trousdale towards the stadium, keep an eye out for the set of flag poles. In fact, you don't even need to keep an eye out, just keep listening. You'll hear the dinging sound of fans kicking the USC flag poles for good luck. Just keep in mind that the intensity with which you kick does not increase or decrease the "good luck," so let's not cause ourselves any foot injuries.

Food & Beverage    4

The area surrounding the Coliseum is one of the few that allows tailgating in Los Angeles, so fans are given the opportunity to prepare their own food before the game. If you would rather focus your tailgating time on the liquid diet and eat at the game, the options are plentiful here as well.

The menu on the upper concourse leaves something to be desired. Stands here have simple options such as the "Regular Dog" ($5.50), "Colossal Dog" ($6.50), "Great Big Dawg" ($8.00), Super Nachos ($6.00), Popcorn tub ($6.00), Candy ($3.00), Soft Pretzels ($5.00), Chips ($3.00), Salted Peanuts ($5.00), Extra Nacho Cheese ($1.00). Beverage options here include Coke products (Regular $5.50 or Jumbo $6.50), Monster Energy ($6.00), Coffee ($3.00), or Dasani bottled water for $5.00.

Most of the more desirable options are on the lower concourse surrounding the stadium. Here you'll find kettle korn (medium $7.00 or large $10.00), funnel cakes, tacos ($8.00), burritos, Martin's Famous Louisiana Sausages, teriyaki chicken rice bowls, and even turkey legs ($8.00) .

Of course, the now common Aquas Frescas can also be found on the concourse. These drinks typically combine fruits, cereals, or seeds with sugar and water. I spotted a rather interesting stand with a sign reading "Everybody Loves Derrick's Big Dog - It's Healthy, It's Turkey or Chicken!" If you're looking for more predictable fare, there is also a Chick-fil-A on site. It's a good thing college football is played on Saturdays!

Lastly, and most importantly, save your appetite and your arteries for the post-game. Outside of the stadium, you'll find many vendors with nothing more than a flat cookie sheet and a can of sterno beneath. Here, you'll find the famous bacon-wrapped hot dogs. I can't say that I've found a more consistently enjoyable food item anywhere and as a result, have probably taken about 10 years off of my lifespan. The buns are dabbed in the grease and filled with fried onion and peppers. After the dog is placed inside, the chef tops if off with ketchup, mustard, mayo (yes mayo), and perhaps a jalepeno pepper. These can be had for anywhere from $3.00 to $5.00.

Atmosphere    3

A year ago, I reviewed an experience at the Coliseum and gave the venue a 5/5 atmosphere score. After visiting an additional 50 venues in the past year, I'm down-grading to a 3/5.

Certainly, the historic gameday traditions bolster most of this score. It all starts off when the trumpet call is heard and the "Spirit of Troy" (marching band) takes the field playing "Conquest". Even if the marching band is not typically your thing, pay close attention to the drum major.

Potentially the most famous cheer/dance squad of all time can also be spotted on the field before long. The 12 "Song Girls" perform chant and dance routines throughout the contest to conjure up some USC spirit.

Prior to the contest, you'll see "Traveler" (USC's mascot) with the Trojan warrior atop him, trotting around the field. This particular white-colored horse is the VII version and is an inspiration to most USC players and fans. Spectators can also see Traveler trot around the field after Trojan touchdowns. Prior to the start of the fourth quarter, Traveler trots to the opposite endzone and the Trojan warrior stops and faces the arches. He then points his sword to the Olympic Cauldron, which quickly lights aflame.

Potentially the most memorable part of the atmosphere will be during a big drive when USC is scoring first down after first down. Upon a new set of downs or a touchdown, you'll hear the memorable sound of "Fight On". Trust me, this song will be in your head as you are walking from the stadium, unless of course you are a fan of the opposing team. As the band plays this song, look around and watch all of the fans make the "V" (for victory) symbol and push their hands forward in unison.

Now I cannot confirm the origins of the "V," but some fans have offered suggestions on its origins that are just too darn interesting not to share. Apparently the Trojan Warriors would conquer enemies and cut off their index fingers, being a necessary appendage for the enemy to fight back with. Envision trying to use a sword or shoot a bow without an index finger. To taunt these captives, the Trojan Warriors would hold up their index and middle finger in a "V" shape.

Now aside from these historic traditions, I feel as if the front office should give me a call in regards to the in game experience. I was rather annoyed at how the PA system continued to play the song "Uprising" by Muse over and over, yet failed to use the key portions of the song to get the crowd involved. The front office should send someone down to a San Diego State University basketball game to understand how to use it properly.

Every third down, the scoreboard simply showed 3 bells, one that read "3rd Down", one with "Get Loud", and one reading "On Your Feet". I felt that it got rather repetitive after awhile and lost its luster with the fans as the game went on.

At certain points during the game, a voice could be heard on the PA system, chanting "U-S-C" or "Let's Go Trojans," but honestly it sounded somewhat amateur and the crowd never really caught onto these chants.

Ultimately, there are some rather simple things that the staff could implement to make this a much more memorable atmosphere. The addition of the monstrous scoreboard in 2011 should be better utilized to incorporate the crowd into the game.

Neighborhood    4

The stadium is a few minutes from downtown Los Angeles, so your food and beverage options are far above and beyond most other schools in America.

Before diving into the appetite however, I need to mention Exposition Park. The area quickly reminded me of Washington D.C. with all of the sights just a few minutes of walking distance from one another. The 160 acre area includes the Coliseum itself, but so much more. The Memorial Sports Arena, Natural History Museum, California Science Center, Exposition Park Rose Garden, California African American Museum, and the Expo Center among others. Clearly, you'll need a day or more to view all of this as each of them could take several hours to view. If I had to choose, I'd recommend the Science Center (a large DC-8 Jetliner sits out front) or the Natural History Museum (largest museum on the west coast and home to nearly 35 million artifacts).

If you are looking for a quick meal before or after the game, fast food joints include Subway, McDonald's, Chick-fil-A, Carl's Jr, Pizza Hut, and Jack-In-The-Box all less than a mile away from the stadium.

Another popular option not too far from the stadium is Chano's Drive-In. As you exit the stadium, you'll see many students lining up for a bite to eat. They offer a variety of Mexican foods along with some American options. Burritos, nachos, carne asada fries, tacos, tortas, green chili, burgers, and hot dogs are just a few items that you can find on the menu.

Another name you commonly hear from the USC fans is La Taquiza. The claim to fame here is the mulita (similar to a quesadilla - two handmade tortillas with cheese/meat and guacamole). Everything on the menu here is under $10, so you can try the tacos and mulitas at a reasonable price.

Another Mexican establishment to consider would be El Cholo. While no one really cares what Rachael Ray has to say, she has stated that El Cholo does have the best tacos in LA. The worst seat in the house is affectionately referred to as the Nacho Table because they compensate you for the bad seats with free nachos. Don't forget to try the margaritas as many say that they are the best around!

If Mexican isn't your thing, maybe you should consider Papa Cristos. Here, you'll find some of the best Greek food in all of Los Angeles. With the owner Papa Cristos often in attendance and overseeing the operations, you can get great Greek specialties including lamb, sandwiches, and salad.

One of the Los Angeles food landmarks includes The Pantry or Cafe Pantry. The college students love this because they can get hearty meals 24 hours a day. In fact, they could have asked for a meal at pretty much any time over the past 88 years with the exception of one day (I'll let you do your own research on why it was closed that one day). Give yourself some time to check this place out as the lines often spill outside of the building and around the block. Please note however that this is a cash-only establishment

If you don't mind traveling a few miles from the Coliseum, I would also suggest trying out Philippe's French Dip. I'm a sucker for tourist spots, so when this place claimed to have invented the french dip, I had to try it. This french dip is probably a bit different from many that you have tried because they serve this "wet", or dipped in the beat juices before it is served to you.

Many USC students will tell you to try the 901 Club (or "the 9-0") on Figeroa Street as it was named as Playboy magazine's "college bar of the month" on June of 2002. Here, you'll find 12 or more beers on tap, nine 50 inch plasma televisions. Some of the foods you can try here include the corn-flake crusted chicken fingers, waffle fries, and a double chili burger.

Finally, there is the spot known as Traditions. Founded in 1987, it was a favorite of USC as the only on-campus bar until it was closed in 2008 due to some campus renovations. In 2010, it reopened at the new Campus Center and has been just as successful as the first edition. With everything on-hand from sofas to margarita pitchers to a performing stage, even the underage fans can gain admission here as those over 21 wear a wristband to get their beverages. One of the more popular items here includes the "Trojan Tea" (version of the Long Island Iced Tea) for $8.00.

Fans    4

The USC fans clearly carry a chip on their shoulders from all of the aforementioned success. It really creates some great banter with all of the opposing fans. Let's face it, these "villains" of sport make the game much, much better.

While the crowds have slightly fell off during the probation era, the Trojans still remained first in Pac-10 (and also first when you add Utah and Colorado) attendance and 15th in all of the NCAA with approximately 80,000 per game. When the team becomes eligible for the Pac-12 Championship and bowl games in 2012, expect tickets to quickly become much more difficult to come by.

The one thing that is left to be desired was the amount of chanting that goes on in the stadium. Beyond the "V" sign and the typical "ooooo" chant, there wasn't much else exclusive to the fans. I would have loved to see the 4 corners of the stadium chanting "U"¦ S"¦ C"¦ Trojans," or something to that effect. They managed to keep the stadium loud and the atmosphere intense, but really lacked identity beyond some of the traditions with the mascot.

Access    4

The Coliseum is about three miles southwest of downtown Los Angeles and adjacent to the campus. The stadium is most easily reached from the 10 or the 110, which unfortunately have some of the most congested traffic in the area. The good news is that if you can beat the traffic, Interstate 5, LAX airport, Interstate 405, or the beach cities aren't far away.

There is not a single large parking lot, but rather multiple satellite lots (with 20,000 spaces) that run anywhere from $10 to $20, depending on the proximity of the parking. Keep in mind that sometimes the reward of saving $10 is much less than the risk of your car incurring some damage upon your return; so choose your lot wisely.

If you're taking the Metro, take any one of the routes to Union Station and connect to the bus service. Visit the Metro's Trip Planner site for more details. In the coming years, the Expo line will be complete and offer three different stops around the USC campus.

Once inside the stadium, you'll find a spacious lower concourse. Some of the lower tunnels have amusing signs that read "Don't Crowd" above them. I'm sure the thousands of fans scrambling in at the last minute or eager to get home won't "crowd" due to the sign.

If you are sitting on the upper levels, I hope you've done your exercises on the stairmaster. Some rather intimidating inclines for the non-athlete lead to the upper levels.

The restrooms were plentiful and despite the stadium being at near capacity for many of the games I attended, the lines moved along quickly.

Return on Investment    5

Due to the large following that USC has garnered over the years, it seems that most seats go for the flat fee of $55.00. Of course for the annual premier games, you'll be challenged to find these tickets for under $75.00.

Your parking fee is contingent of your efforts in finding inexpensive parking, but ultimately one would expect to spend around $100 for a trip to the Coliseum for a game after all is said and done. For this fee, you're likely to see an almost full stadium of atmosphere and some of the best talent in division one football on several Saturdays during the fall. As the Pac-12 continues to become more formidable in the NCAA football landscape, fans can watch the Trojans take on notable opponents such as Stanford, Oregon, and Notre Dame.

Regardless of the opponent, you'll witness one of the best experiences in college football. Make a day of it to check out the campus, the surrounding neighborhood, and it will be a day well spent.

Extras    5

There are more "extras" associated with the Los Angeles Memorial Coliseum than I have effort to list, but I'll try to hit some of the highlights.

During your visit to the stadium, be sure to walk by the arches and check out the "Court of Honor." This memorial has many plaques to recognize the events or achievements that have occurred at the stadium. Notable names such as Daniel Reeves, Jesse Owens, Pope John Paul II, Jackie Robinson, John Wooden, and Jerry West all hold a place in the Court.

If the Olympic rings and arches weren't enough, check out the "Olympic Gateway" in front of the Coliseum. Created in 1984 by Robert Graham, this structure rises 25 feet above ground and has headless male and female bodies made of bronze.

The first few times I drove along the 110, I looked up and saw the sign for the Coliseum and laughed. The LED screen and design are more than a little outdated. As time went on, I began to appreciate the sign more and more for remaining original in such a modern city.

I just can't get enough of the traditions. Football announcer Peter Arbogast coined the phrase "Perfect Day" for any day that the Trojans win and both rivals and Notre Dame lose on the same day.

Rivalry games create great atmosphere (and unfortunately high ticket prices) at the Coliseum. The annual game with Notre Dame is for the Jeweled Shillelagh. The two teams combined have more national championship teams, Heisman Trophy winners, and All-Americans than any other college football matchup. Since 1926, the two have met every year.

Let's not forget the Pac-10 rivarly with the team that is only 10 miles away in UCLA. These two teams are the only two programs in the BCS that share a major city. UCLA even played in the Coliseum until 1982, when they moved to the Rose Bowl. Every year, the two play each other for the Victory Bell. Beyond just the tangible award, this game is for Los Angeles bragging rights.

A more interesting tradition that may not be so well-known is the #55. Typically, the number cannot be selected by any player, but rather assigned by the coach. If a player is fortunate enough to be named #55, he better represent it well as he is in some good company. Keith Rivers, Markus Steele, Junior Seau, Chris Claiborne, and Willie McGinest are some of the more notable players to don the number.


Many other notable events have taken place at the Coliseum, including the 1959 World Series. The crowd on hand for Game 3 of this series (92,706) is still the largest World Series attendance to date. It's rather mind-boggling that there is also a baseball layout for the stadium. Prior to moving in to Dodger Stadium, the Dodgers called the Coliseum home for four years. The baseball layout here actually set a Guinness World Record for attendance at a baseball game between the Boston Red Sox and Los Angeles Dodgers with 115,300 fans (2008).

Not to be overshadowed by the MLB, the NFL also spent some time in the Coliseum as well. The Los Angeles Rams played here from 1946 through 1979 and the Raiders from 1982 through 1994. Other professional football factions include the AFL's Los Angeles Chargers (1960), the USFL's Los Angeles Express (1983-1985), and the XFL's Los Angeles Extreme (2001). Some of the biggest stages also graced the Coliseum, including the NFL Pro Bowl (1951-1972 and in 1979) and two Super Bowls (1967 & 1973).

In 2009, the Los Angeles Lakers used the Coliseum as the culmination of their championship parade. Only a venue such as the Coliseum could hold 90,000 Lakers fans. The area around the arches was decorated in purple and gold and the court was brought from the Staples Center and set up on the field.

The Coliseum is the only stadium to ever host two separate Olympic Games (1932 & 1984). As a result, the State of California and the United States Government declared the Coliseum a State and Federal Historical Landmark. It's a pretty fair bet that the stadium will hold this honor into eternity. With all of the money that international cities are throwing at new venues to lure the Olympics, it's doubtful that the same city with ever host again, let alone in the same stadium.

The Coliseum has also experienced its taste of Hollywood. The stadium has appeared in movies "Forest Gump" and "The Naked Gun." Television shows such as "Glee," "American Idol," "Scrubs," "How I Met Your Mother," "LA Law," and "Good Morning America." The USC band recorded the title track on Fleetwood Mac's 1970 album "Tusk."

This venue has been there for many other historic events as well. John F. Kennedy gave his acceptance speech at the 1960 Democratic Convention and first coined his phrase "New Frontier." In 1973, Evel Knievel used the entire length of the stadium to jump 50 stacked cars on ABC's Wide World of Sports.

Final Thoughts

What may be most ironic about the USC football program is that when the team changed nicknames in 1912, it chose the Trojans because "At this time, the athletes and coaches of the university were under terrific handicaps. They were facing teams that were bigger and better-equipped, yet they had splendid fighting spirit. The name 'Trojans' fitted them." Can you count on one hand how many programs are now bigger and better than USC on an annual basis?

Clearly, the Los Angeles Coliseum stretches across more entertainment and sports options than most venues. It is nothing short of amazing that this venue is nearly at the century mark in age, yet continues to maintain such aesthetic beauty and excitement. It appears that USC will call it home for many more years as the team signed a new 25 year lease in 2008. Like them or not, make it a point to visit the Trojans at the Memorial Coliseum.

Follow Drew's Travel's Through Southern California on Twitter @Big10Drew.